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How To Find What Techniques REALLY Work For Your Hair

21 Feb

I’ve been asked in the past how i personally know what techniques work for my hair and which ones don’t and how they can figure out what makes their hair happy. My answer is and always will be EXPERIMENT! Experiment, experiment, experiment! Simple isn’t it?

Let me ask you this. If you’ve always done things one way, how can you be sure that way is the best way unless you have a comparison, something else to compare it to?

How do i know that my hair responds better to weekly rather than fortnightly washes? How do i know that detangling tools work better for me than solely finger detangling? How do i know my hair responds well to regular moisturising and sealing? Because i experiment. I’m always trying new/different methods with my hair. I’ll give you a few examples of some of my experiments.

Washing

I’ve gone two weeks without washing my hair on more than one occasion and i can feel the difference. After the first week, it seems that moisturising and sealing doesn’t work as well. My hair begins to feel really dry and straw like, as though the moisture isn’t getting through even though i’m moisturising daily. So i know that weekly washing keeps product build-up to a minimum so i get maximum penetration from my moisturising and sealing routine. My scalp becomes itchy if it’s not washed weekly too. I also find that my hair needs the weekly conditioning to maintain it’s optimum softness and manageability.

Detangling

I’ve also tried finger detangling exclusively for 3 weeks. I keep reading how finger detangling is ‘the best way’ to detangle your hair and so i thought i’d give it a try. I don’t use combs or tools to style my hair during the week and only fully detangle on wash days with conditioner and the Tangle Teezer. For those three weeks i washed my hair weekly and used no other detangling tools apart from my fingers. To detangle i sprayed my dry hair with my Detangling Spray (coming soon) and gently separated my strands before stepping in the shower to wash it, and again detangling with conditioner during washing. I thought i was doing a great job until the third week where i started to get tiny two and three strand tangles. It seems i was doing a good job removing the larger tangles but not so much the smaller ones. What i found was that i had loads of these two and three strand tangles and so was forced to bring out my detangling tools, but oh the work i had to do. It took me AGES to remove all those tiny tangles! I definitely did more damage than good with exclusive finger detangling. I personally know that detangling tools work better for me and are in better keeping with my overall lifestyle than exclusive finger detangling. I don’t have 3-4 hours to sit and pull apart every strand of hair. I have three kids!

Shampooing over Co-washing

This knowledge came about by accident. Since i’ve begun to formulate my own range, i’ve had to use my own hair to test out each product before passing them onto my panel of testers. That’s probably why i haven’t written so much about my routine in a while. It’s a bit all over the place as i test out new things. When i was developing my shampoo, i was forced to shampoo my hair weekly to test out different formulas. So for a few months i was shampooing every week, which i thought i would never do as i hate the way regular shampoos make my hair feel. I usually alternate between shampooing and co-washing. Once i was happy with my shampoo i went back to co-washing for a while only to find my scalp is no longer satisfied with it. My hair loves co-washing (can you say soft?) but my scalp does not. It does not cleanse my scalp as well as shampooing does. This also teaches me about products. Products DO make a difference. As i said, I’ve always hated the way shampoo makes my hair feel so i tend to steer clear of them. But my Aloe & Honey Conditioning Shampoo works so well for me and leaves my hair clean but soft and not stripped, that i’m pleased to shampoo my hair weekly. It’s no problem now. i co-wash only when i’m pressed for time, after intense workouts or if i need to add extra moisture mid-week in the summer months.

My Advice To You

Experiment to see what your hair likes. Try washing it weekly for one month and then fortnightly the next month and note the way your hair feels. In summer try warm water rinses/co-washes mid-week for one month and see if the extra moisture brings your hair to life or if it’s moisture overload. Try co-washing for one month and then shampooing and conditioning the next. How does your hair feel? Try moisturising and sealing daily for 2 weeks and then moisturising twice weekly (for example) for another 2 and see how your hair responds. You’re looking for happy hair (what does that actually mean?). Hair that feels soft and smooth. You’re looking for processes that bring out the best in your hair, that makes your hair easier to maintain, that minimises damage and split ends and that maintains a healthy scalp. Gradually you’ll begin to learn the processes and techniques that work best for you and your hair!

Until next time!

 
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Posted by on February 21, 2012 in Hair Care, Hair Care Basics

 

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TKC: Chelating v. Clarifying Shampoos

24 Jun

By Kelly

 

 

 

 

Clarifying Shampoos are a must for hair carers, but is it enough? Do you need a little more?

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What is a Chelating Shampoo?

Chelating shampoos are for lifting dulling, mineral deposits (and random ions) that have attached to your hair (mainly in hard water situations.) Some people use them as a pre cursor to a chemical service to help free up the cuticle and get “better” relaxer results. It can also be used after a relaxer (especially if the relaxer is no-lye) to help remove some of the deposits relaxers leave behind.

Regular shampoos can’t remove the minerals; they can only remove product build-up. Minerals really bind onto the hair and don’t just wash off. Not even a clarifying shampoo can lift the minerals off, hence the need for a chelating shampoo.

Chelating shampoos are sometimes referred to as swimmers shampoos because they remove chlorine deposits and such. Some swimmer’s shampoos are also chelating formulas, too

Clarifying Shampoos:

Clarifying shampoos are mainly for lifting everyday products and other build-up from the strands. Some clarifying shampoos contain chelating ingredients (ex. EDTA), but those ingredients are typically used in those other shampoo formulas as preservatives and/or pH balancers. Look for a chelating shampoo that specifically says that it is formulated to either chelate or lift mineral deposits because ingredients can throw you off.

How Do You Know If You Need To Chelate Or Clarify?

Chelating shampoos are only really necessary if you have hard water, are a swimmer, or you relax with no-lye formulas. They are specifically formulated to lift mineral deposits from the hair, and they can also clarify since they are generally stronger shampoo formulas. Occasionally you’ll see a clarifying formula that also chelates like Kenra Clarifying Shampoo.

Plain old, regular product build up tends to result in limp, weighed down feeling hair. It also tends to feel dry and may even have a bit of breakage, but not to the magnitude of mineral-laden hair. Mineral build-up results in hair that is excessively dry and straw-like despite conditioning. Faded colours (for colour-treated hair especially,) and even some brassy weird tones on natural hair colours. Breakage occurs pretty easily. If your water lathers poorly in general with soap and shampoos, your water is hard and you could be in need of a chelating shampoo. Also, if your water makes your skin feel dry after a shower or bathing, you’ve probably got some hard water.

So, If you aren’t a swimmer, a no-lye user, or don’t have hard water, you really don’t need a chelating shampoo.  A clarifying shampoo will do everything you need (and some clarifiers actually contain chelating ingredients like EDTA).  A clarifier won’t work well if you have hard water.  So if your shampoo isn’t lathering well, you’re clarifying and your hair still feels coated, your hair colour has a strange cast to it, and just feels rough and ‘tangly’ in the shower, you probably have hard water and you might benefit from a chelating shampoo.

If you don’t fit the description for a chelating shampoo (and/or aren’t sure if you have hard water) but you want one just in case – I’d use one once a month or every couple of months just for maintenance.

How often should you use a Chelating Shampoo?

Swimmers use chelating shampoo formulas often. My daughter swims twice a week and I use it in her hair twice a month because the swimming cap still lets all the water in and her hair is pretty much drenched when she comes out of the pool. If I feel that it is too much for her hair, I cut back and just use a clarifier or give her hair a really deep condition plus treatments. If you have hard water, then you need it more often too – but once a month or every couple of months is the most common.

Note: It can dry out your hair if you don’t deep condition it afterwards.

Chelating Agents Are:

Disodium EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate AKA Trisodium Citrate

What Chelating Shampoos are there?

Most chelating shampoos will say that they are.  Some popular chelating shampoos are:

  • Pureology Purify Shampoo – sulfate free – best reputation
  • Kenra Clarifying – chelating formula and clarifier in one – good reviews as does not over strip the hair. Also does not contain SLS as many others do.
  • Shampoo Three’ by Paul Mitchell
  • Joico K-Pac Chelating Poo
  • L’anza Swim & Sun Daily Chelating Shampoo
  • Mizani Phormula 7 Neutralizing and Chelating Shampoo Aveda Detox
  • Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo is chelating  (removes minerals)
  •   RESOLVE® Chelating Shampoo from Joico
  •   Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo
  •   Nexxus Aloe Rid
  •   Nexxus – Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo
  •   Ouidad Water Works
  •   Artec Texturline Daily Clarifying Shampoo

Some have joked that Johnsons Baby Shampoo fits the bill as it contains Tetrasodium EDTA and contains no SLS!

The Benefits:

There would be nothing blocking the penetration of healthy hair products and you’d only need to use it once a month or so, so the bottle will last more than a year with that little of use.

Yes, it would have a slight stripped feeling but after deep conditioning afterwards, you will notice a difference in how your hair took to your conditioning treatment because chelating makes your hair like a blank canvas.

Some naturals have never used a chelating shampoo, and find that clarifying works just as well.

The choice is yours.

If you choose to use one of the above products or another that you’ve found, please review and let me know how you got on. Can’t wait…


 
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Posted by on June 24, 2011 in Kelly

 

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Hair Care Basics

13 Apr

Lately i’ve been talking with my friends and found out that there is still lots of confusion as to what is considered good hair care for our (natural, afro) hair. So i thought i’d outline the basics of a good hair care regime which you can then adjust to your own personal needs. Every hair care regime will and should include the following: washing, conditioning, moisturising/sealing. That is it stripped down to the bare minimum.

Washing

  • Shampoo – there are moisturising and clarifying. Moisturising shampoos are more gentle and less stripping, whereas Clarifying shampoos are designed to really strip the hair of all product build up. ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) and baking soda are also used to clarify the hair  and scalp of build-up.
  • Co-wash – conditioner washing is a way of washing your hair without stripping it of it’s oils. Depending on what conditioner you use will determine how often you will need to clarify your hair. Check out this post http://keepitsimplesista.blogspot.com/2008/02/conditioner-washing.html
  • Natural clays/powders – Includes bentonite clay, rhassoul clay and other herbs such as the ayurvedic or indian herbs and are used as alternatives to shampoo to ‘cleanse’ and condition the hair and scalp.

Notes: The question you have to ask and answer for yourself is how often you will wash your hair. The misconception that washing too frequently is damaging for our hair is wrong. Water is excellent for our hair and we should use it to our advantage. It is true, however, that shampooing too often can be drying so it is recommended to limit shampooing to once a week or so depending on the products you use on a daily basis. If you need to wash more frequently then this i would recommend that you consider co-washing. Some women co-wash several times within the week and  shampoo once a week, clarifying once a month. Some women co-wash once a week and shampoo once a month only to clarify their hair. But washing hair often, in whatever capacity you choose, is an excellent habit to  get into. A clean hair and scalp will thrive considering all other parts of the regime are complementary.

Tips:
*Wash your hair in sections and braid or twist each section to avoid shrinkage and/or tangling. Since i started doing this, washing my hair is much less of a hassle.
*Pre-poo (pre shampoo) treatments are excellent for coating your hair and counteracting the drying effects of shampooing. Use oils and or conditioner of choice apply it to your hair liberally and put on a shower cap. Cover with a headscarf or wrap of choice and leave overnight. Wash hair the following day. If you forget to pre-poo overnight then a couple of hours before washing is still really good.

Conditioning

  • Rinse out – a lot of conditioners are designed to be left in only for a few minutes and then rinsed out. These conditioners are good for co-washing and for everyday conditioning.
  • Deep (moisture) conditioning – Designed to draw moisture deep into the hair shaft. Some conditioner’s are specifically designed for this purpose and require no add-ins, but a lot of women use a rinse-out conditioner with add-ins such as honey and oils to enhance the conditioning properties and utilise heat to encourage deep penetration.
  • Protein Conditioning – High protein conditioners are designed to add protein back into the hair shaft, thus strengthening the hair. Hair is mostly made of protein and requires a good balance of moisture and protein in order to stay healthy. Chemically treated hair whether it be relaxed, texturised or dyed needs more protein than natural hair as the chemicals break down the protein structure of the hair and leave the strands weak, so it’s important to get a good amount of protein to re-strengthen the shaft. As for natural hair it still needs protein but far less than chemically altered hair. You can buy ready made protein treatments or you can make your own. If making your own, then coconut milk is good for adding protein as is egg. Mix your desired protein into a conditioner with some oils. Leave in for about 15 – 30 minutes depending on how badly your hair needs protein and rinse. Protein treatments should ALWAYS be followed by a deep moisturising conditioner to rebalance the hair and to avoid breakage.

Notes: Finding the balance between moisture and protein is a personal issue but generally the signs are as follows, if your hair is brittle and snaps easily it’s a sign that it needs moisture so deep condition more, whereas if your hair feels mushy and has little elasticity it is a sign that your hair needs protein. Most naturals do a protein treatment once a month, more if their hair is dyed.

Moisturising

MOISTURE EQUALS WATER

  • Ready-made – Look for products that contain water (aqua) as the first ingredient as water is the only true moisturiser.
  • Home-made – There are several ways to incorporate more moisture into your hair. Spritzing is an easy way to do this. Whether it be made up of only water or whether it includes oils, humectants such as glycerine and floral waters such as rose-water, it’s a great way to add moisture. Just add the ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and spritz. Simple.

Sealing

Sealing the hair is to ‘seal’ in the moisture that you have put into it from the previous step. It traps the water and nutrients on the hair shaft, slowing down the evaporation of the water based moisturizer. It keeps the moisture on the hair shaft longer.

  • Ready-made – Look for moisturisers that are oil based. That have oil as the main ingredient and does not contain water.
  • Oils – thicker oils such as castor oil are good for this. Jojoba oil does not penetrate the hair shaft making it a good sealer. Coconut oil can also be used as it partially penetrates. Olive oil and avocado oil penetrate all the way into the hair shaft and are best used in conjunction with other oils to ensure good sealing.
  • Butters – Such as Shea butter can be used with excellent results. Good for those with thick or very dry hair (such as mine). Choose a good butter that is rich in nutrients and imparts softness to the hair.

Extras

Other factors you may want to consider are how, when and what you use to comb/brush your hair. Keep combing to a minimum as much as possible and if it’s completely necessary add moisture to your hair to make it flexible. Most naturals only comb/brush to detangle their hair when it is saturated with conditioner during washing and at all other times ‘finger’ comb using their fingers only. Don’t over comb as this can cause unnecessary breakage and split ends.

Depending on your own ethics, you will decide which products to use and whether it’s a concern of yours to stay away from certain chemicals. Personally i try to stay away from too much chemicals and am focusing on using natural hair care products that are mineral oil/petroleum, parabens and silicone free as much as possible.

I will refer you to the following post on Black Hair Planet to give you further help on building a good hair care routine.

Regime building template -
http://www.blackhairplanet.com/blog/regimen-building-natural-hair/

 
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Posted by on April 13, 2010 in Alternative Cleansing, Co-Wash, Deep Condition, Hair Care, Hair Care Basics, Oils, Protein Treatment, Spritz

 

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