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A Clean Slate – Chelate, Strengthen, Deep Condition

12 Sep

After reading through ‘The Science of Black Hair’, i’ve decided to tweak my hair care regime for (hopefully) a better maintenance system. The author of the book suggests learning to carefully balance moisture and protein for the best hair results and suggests to not only have a protein conditioner/treatment but to also have some kind of protein rich leave-in or moisturiser. I’ll discuss in a future post about the importance of balancing moisture and protein, but for now i’ll outline what i’ve done and will be doing to kick start (or kick-continue?) my healthy hair care regime. I will be pre-pooing before every shampoo with coconut oil (overnight, preferably), finger detangling BEFORE washing, using heat to deep condition (whenever possible) and wet testing on a regular basis to learn how my hair is fairing.

So firstly i needed to give my hair a fresh start, a clean slate or blank canvas to work with. And because i live in such a hard water area i know that simply clarifying my hair is not going to be enough. I’ve always known about chelating shampoos but haven’t paid much attention to them. After reading Kelly’s post on the matter, found here, and after re-reading about using chelating shampoos in THE book, i finally bought the Pureology Purify Shampoo from the list provided by Kelly. Here’s what i did yesterday.

My Clean Slate Routine

Pre-Poo

I started by spraying my hair liberally with my Light Conditioning & Detangling Spray (available soon) and sectioning my hair into four (as always). Starting with one section, and clipping up the other three, i re-misted it with more detangler and smoothed it into my hair. It soaks in very well and makes finger detangling a breeze. I LOVE THIS STUFF! Anyway…Once fully hydrated, i ran my hands through my hair, gently separating my strands and removing any knots and tangles. I then saturated the section with coconut oil, twisting to finish. I repeated this for all the sections and covered my hair in a plastic cap (bag, lol). I sat under my hooded dryer for 20 mins and let my hair cool slightly before proceeding to wash.

Detangle

Once i got into the shower i rinsed my hair with water and going one section at a time, i un-twisted and rinsed the section for a few minutes, agitating my hair and scalp with my fingers. I then applied my Crambe Moisturising Conditioner (available soon) to the section and detangled using the Tangle Teezer. I never detangle the whole section at once. After applying conditioner to the whole section, i separate it into smaller sections (clipping up the rest) and apply a bit more conditioner to that. Then i carefully detangle from tip to root, sub-dividing the smaller section further if necessary. Once i finish detangling the smaller section i clip it out of the way and take another smaller section from the main until i’ve detangled that whole section. I then twisted the whole section and clipped it out of the way. Finger detangling before hand removed a lot of the tangles and knots and made detangling at this stage much easier, which translated into less breakage. I repeated for all the other sections. I tried wet testing at this stage but i still have to get to grips with it. With time i’ll be a pro at it.

Chelate

Taking down one of the sections, i untwisted and fully rinsed the conditioner out. I then squeezed some of the Pureology Purifying Shampoo into my palms and distributed it through my hair. What a lather. Holding my hair taught with one hand, i used the pads of my fingers to gently scrub my scalp. The instructions on the bottle says to leave the shampoo on for 2 minutes before rinsing so i clipped up the foamy section without rinsing and moved on to the next, repeating for all sections. Once i had lathered all sections i went back to the first section, unclipped and rinsed out the shampoo. What a strange feeling! My hair felt really… strange. Totally stripped of all oils but yet not crispy, crunchy. Just an odd sensation. Not sure whether that is down to the brand of shampoo or to the pre-poo.  Once fully rinsed i re-twisted the section, repeating for all sections.

Strengthen

I dried my hair gently before applying my protein treatment. I have a formula ready for making my protein treatment which includes Hibiscus, Coconut Milk and Hydrolysed Wheat Protein but i didn’t have some of the ingredients on hand so i mixed in some Hibiscus extract and Hydrolysed Protein into some leftover conditioner i had lying around. I undone a section, applied the mix from tip to root and re-twisted, repeating for all sections. I covered my hair in a plastic cap/bag and sat under my hooded dryer for 15 minutes, letting my hair cool before rinsing it out. I made sure to undo the twists and rinse the sections to fully remove the protein conditioner, re-twisting when done.

Deep Condition

Drying my hair gently, i proceeded to deep condition. I applied my Sapote Intense Conditioning Mask (available soon) to each section, really making sure to coat my ends well, covered and again sat under the dryer for 30 – 45 minutes this time, allowing my hair to cool before my final rinse.

Cuticle Rinse

This time i kept my four twists intact and thoroughly rinsed my hair with cool running water to help my cuticles lie flat and keep the moisture in. I then followed with a very diluted ACV rinse, about 2 tablespoons to 500ml of cool water. I only want the acidic benefits of the ACV to further close my cuticles, not the clarifying properties so i used a small amount. I use larger amounts of ACV if i wish to benefit from its cleansing effects. I poured the rinse over my hair and scalp and then stepped out of the shower. I didn’t rinse it out.

Protein Spritz, Leave-In & Seal

I made a protein rich spritz for my hair which includes hibiscus extract, hydrolysed wheat protein, rosewater, glycerine and aloe vera juice. Going a section at a time, i undone the twisted section, parted it into two and blotted my hair dry with an old cotton t-shirt. My hair felt really good. Nice and soft. I misted it lightly with the protein spritz which i could feel strengthening my strands further, as my hair started to harden slightly. I then applied my Creamy Leave-In Conditioner which really re-softened the strands beautifully. I finished by sealing in the moisture with my Shea Hair Butter and twisted the section. I repeated for the other half of the section and the further three remaining sections. By the time i was finished i had 8 large twists and air-dried overnight.

There you have it. This morning when i woke up, i felt my twists and i must say… i’m really pleased! My hair feels soooooooo good! Really soft and smooth. I will definitely chelate on a regular basis, maybe once every month or two months, to really remove any mineral deposits left on my hair by this yucky water i have to live with.

I’m going to concentrate on packing the moisture in this week by moisturising nightly with my aloe & rosewater spritz with added honeyquat and panthenol followed by the Creamy Leave-In Conditioner and sealed in with the Shea Hair Butter or the Shea Hair & Scalp Oil depending on how i feel. At the weekend i’ll cleanse and deep condition with heat. I’ll be cuticle rinsing on a regular basis as well for added smoothness.

If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products mentioned here before they go on sale on the website (which will be at SOME point, lol) you can always request them via the Custom-Made Service by filling out the form on the website or by emailing me at sales@dias-allnatural.co.uk. I bought the Pureology Purify Shampoo from Beauty Flash Shop online.

Until next time!

 
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Posted by on September 12, 2011 in Chelating Shampoo, Hair Care, Protein Treatment

 

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How To Wash Natural Hair

12 Aug

For some of us the daunting task of trudging through the endless knots and terrible tangles are a nightmare we just aren’t prepared to face. Washing your natural hair needn’t be a mammoth task though. It’s not about fighting with your hair, it’s about understanding it and changing your techniques to reflect this.

One thing i’ve learned so far is that washing your hair often really helps to promote healthy hair growth. Cleaning the scalp from product build-up and dead skin cells ensures your hair ducts remain unclogged and allows the hair to grow freely. Washing often keeps the hair strands clean and free from build-up allowing proper penetration of water and oils resulting in well moisturised and healthier hair.

So if we are going to be washing our hair more often then it’s wise to know how to go about it. Here i’m going to give you a few tips to help make wash day much less traumatic.

Pre-Poo

Start by doing a pre-shampoo treatment. This step is mostly necessary if you are going to shampoo your hair but is not always needed if co-washing. It helps to minimise the drying effects of the shampoo so as not to leave your hair totally stripped. Pre-shampooing your hair also helps to add much needed moisture to dry, thirsty hair. A pre-poo can be anything from oil, to aloe gel, to conditioner or a mix of these, it’s really up to you. Start by sectioning your hair into four or six sections and apply your pre-poo of choice to each section, really saturating your strands and making sure they are well coated. Twist or loosely braid each section and cover with a plastic cap and headscarf. Now you can leave your treatment on from 20 minutes to overnight. Whichever you prefer and whichever suits your overall needs.

Wash Hair In Sections

Now that you’ve pre-treated your hair you are ready to wash. Keep your hair in these sections. This is the most effective way of washing natural hair. naturally curly hair curls around itself, that’s just what curly hair does. When wet it shrinks up on itself and causes tangles. Washing hair in braided sections stops the hair from doing this which eliminates the need to spend endless hours detangling shrunken hair.

Soak your hair with water and let it completely saturate your strands. Now you have a choice. You can choose to shampoo/cleanse your whole head at once keeping the sections in and working on the scalp only with the balls of your fingers. If you do this then it’s best to dilute your shampoo/conditioner so it penetrates all the strands easier. When finished rinse off the remaining cleanser. Or you can choose to work one section at a time. Take one section of your hair and undo the twist or braid. Apply a small amount of shampoo or conditioner to the section and work it in slowly. DO NOT vigorously rub your hair. This will seriously matt it and then you’ll be in trouble. Smooth your hands down your hair to get a lather or to distribute the conditioner and with one hand hold the section securely and with the other rub your scalp to lift off the dirt and product build-up. This stops the hair from shrinking on itself whilst loose.

When done rinse it off and re-braid or twist the section (tip – if shampooing, apply a small amount of conditioner onto your hair before rinsing off the shampoo to stop that squeaky, stripped feeling). This is so important. At no one time should you leave your hair ‘out’. Always re-twist the sections right to the ends to keep the hair tangle free.  The benefits of pre-pooing your hair before hand is that it helps to reduce the formation of knots and tangles during the washing process.

Detangle

This is an important step in washing your hair as i personally recommend not dry combing. As a result your hair may go a few days to a whole week without being combed right through so detangling well on wash day is a must. There are many ways of detangling. Some choose to use their fingers only, some prefer to comb and others like to brush their tangles out. It’s up to you what you choose to do. I personally like to do all three. The fingers separate the strands, the comb removes knots and tangles whilst the brush removes shed hair. It’s better to start with your fingers then move to a comb and then a brush, in that order to avoid breakage.

Saturate your hair with water, and using your fingers separate the strands by pulling them apart gently and running your fingers through your hair. Apply your conditioner of choice and using your wide tooth comb, start at the ends and work your way up. Detangling in small sections allows you to get through your strands easier without becoming overly frustrated with your hair and loosing patients with the comb. GENTLY is the key. Do not force the comb through your hair. If it comes to a halt then remove the comb and start at the ends again. Slowly working your way up like this until you can comb from root to tip in one smooth motion. Always make sure you can do this. If you run away from detangling your hair properly, soon you will end up with matted roots and a horrible appointment with scissors.

If you choose to brush your hair after then follow the same principles. I use a Denman brush which i’ve modified to reduce breakage. Start at the ends and work your way up, ever so gently. If the brush comes to a stop then remove it and go back to your ends and work up again until you can brush your hair from your roots to your tips in one smooth motion. Never force the brush through your hair. It will rip your strands and you’ll end up with uneven, broken and split ends. Once you’ve finished detangling re-braid or twist the section with the conditioner still in to keep your hair nicely detangled. After you’ve completed all the sections then rinse your hair thoroughly under running water to remove the conditioner, squeezing the braids to get the water all the way through the hair.

Deep Condition

Apply the DC to your hair in the same sections, making sure to re-braid or twist your hair afterwards. Put on a plastic cap and sit under a hooded dryer if you prefer. Rinse out the conditioner with the braids still in, squeezing them gently to remove all traces of conditioner. Rinsing your hair like this ensures your hair stays tangle free. After all, you’ve worked hard to detangle it.

Dry your hair gently, either with a towel or a cotton t-shirt. DO NOT rub your hair. It’s the worst thing you can do. Dab your hair gently, squeezing the ends to remove excess water.

Air-Dry

Air-drying is much healthier for your hair then using heat. If you must use heat then make sure you apply a heat protectant of some sort to protect your precious hair. Otherwise air-drying is much more gentle on the hair and really minimises breakage, allowing your hair to be healthier and grow longer.

Go one section at a time. Apply a good leave-in conditioner and then seal your hair with an oil or butter mix or a ready made product of your choice. Oil your scalp if necessary and twist or braid your hair. Repeat for all your sections. Once dry take out your braids and style. Drying your hair this way stretches out your strands so your hair is elongated without the need of a blow dryer. If you prefer to ‘wash n go’ then apply your products and go. Simple.

 

I know this all seems like a lot of work but honestly it makes life so much easier. I promise you that you wont regret trying this out. I’d rather swap a few more extra minutes for a much smoother washing experience. Spend a bit more time in the shower and a little less time outside of it, rather than rush through the shower and spend hours afterwards raking through masses of matted hair. After a while you’ll be a pro at this and it won’t be anything to you. Starting something new is always slow and cumbersome but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be whizzing through wash day with ease.

 

 

 
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Posted by on August 12, 2010 in Hair Care, Hair Care Basics, Washing

 

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Let’s Talk Moisture – How To Really Moisturise Natural Hair

25 Jul

How to properly moisturise natural afro (or relaxed) hair is something that is not widely known among the black community. Most of us believe that moisturising our hair means applying ‘grease’ or oils to our hair alone. As a hairdresser i was not taught any differently and now i have been properly educated on taking care of black hair, be it natural or not, i see the lack of knowledge and understanding in the Black hair salon industry (here in the UK anyway!). We suffocate our hair and scalps with petroleum based products and refuse to wash our hair often. No wonder our hair doesn’t grow well.

Black afro hair is the most delicate hair on the planet. No other race has hair like ours. Ours is the driest due to our natural curl pattern and as a result it is prone to breakage rather easily. If you relax your hair the chemicals in the relaxer further damage your strands, stripping off the cuticles leaving your hair even weaker. This is the reason why it seems as though afro hair doesn’t grow as well as other races. The issue is not with the hair God has blessed us with, the issue is the lack of understanding on how to properly care for it.

Moisturising

Our hair NEEDS MOISTURE!!! I can’t stress that enough. When our hair is properly moisturised it keeps the hair soft and elastic which means that it will stretch before it breaks.

WATER is the only true source of moisture. Nothing else will do. However water alone is not adequate at successfully KEEPING your hair moisturised. Alone it evaporates too quickly leaving your hair feeling crispy. A partnership is needed here with water and oils. The water moisturises and hydrates the hair shaft and the oils work to coat the hair and seal in the moisture helping it to evaporate more slowly and keep your hair moisturised for longer.

Think of it this way. Take a blade of grass. When it is watered it is green, soft and flexible. Trying to snap the grass in half isn’t easy due to it’s moisture content. Now picture a dry blade of grass. It’s brown, hard and crispy in texture. It is not difficult to snap the blade, in fact most of the time it will just crumble into little pieces. Now if you coat the dry blade of grass with oil will it hydrate and moisturise it? No. It just coats it. It does nothing to replenish the lost moisture.

Now transfer that illustration to your own hair. This is also true of our hair. If it’s kept dry it will break just as easily but if it is well hydrated then it will not be as easy to break off.

So armed with this new knowledge how do we apply this practically?

Keep your hair well watered and oiled or moisturised and sealed. It’s that simple.

Now the term moisturised may not be new to you but now you understand that when i say moisturised i mean watered. I use a spritz made up of aloe vera juice, floral water and glycerine. You could use plain ole water if you wanted but i like the extra nourishment the Aloe juice imparts. The glycerine is a humectant that draws moisture to itself which will help keep your hair hydrated for longer. You could also use a commercial moisturiser which is a water and oil emulsion. Just make sure the first ingredient is aqua or water otherwise it will not work to properly moisturise your hair.

Our hair needs moisture DAILY. This is the key in keeping our hair healthy. Over the course of the day the water will slowly evaporate, so giving your hair a daily dose of water will ensure it is constantly moisturised. Try not to go more than two days without hydrating your hair or else it could start breaking due to excessive dryness.

Sealing

Now the next part of the equation is SEALING. Now sealing your hair may very well be a new term to you. What does it mean. Sealing your hair means to seal or lock in the moisture you have applied to your hair in the first step. Using oils or butters such as Coconut oil or Shea butter will coat the hair shaft which slows down the evaporation of the water thus keeping your hair moisturised for longer.

Now there are some oils that are better at sealing your hair than others. Some oils absorb into your hair softening or conditioning it from the inside out. These oils are good for maintaining soft, healthy hair but will not work as well to seal moisture in. Some of these oils are Olive oil and Avocado oil. They are very light oils and absorb well which is why i use them mostly for my Deep Conditions (DC’s) as the conditioning and softening effects of these oils work very well in this capacity.

Oils that partially penetrate the hair shaft include Coconut oil and Meadowfoam seed oil. What this means is that some of the oil absorbs into the hair and some of it remains on the outside, coating or sealing it. These oils are excellent in that they kill two birds with one stone, as it were. They will condition your hair and seal in moisture at the same time.

Oils that do not absorb into your hair at all include Jojoba oil and sunflower oil. Castor oil is also in this category as it’s so thick. Butters, such as Shea, Murumuru and Mango will also be placed here. They work very well at coating the hair and sealing in moisture.

You could also buy a commercial product that is suitable for sealing. Make sure it contains a mix of some of the oils or butters mentioned and that it has no water in it.

So, after you hydrate your hair with water apply a small amount of oil or butter, making sure to evenly distribute it well.

How do i apply these principles in my regime?

Due to my super shrinky (type 4b/a) hair i moisturise and seal at night before bed. I section my hair into four and working one section at a time, i lightly spritz with my Aloe juice mix (and sometimes apply a little leave-in after spritzing depending on how dry my hair is) and seal with my Shea butter mix before twisting or braiding the section. I repeat for the rest of the sections and tie it down with a satin scarf. In the morning my hair is well stretched out and ready for styling.

Deep Conditioning

Other ways to keep your hair properly moisturised include washing and conditioning your hair often. Most of the time a light misting of water is all your hair gets but it is beneficial to completely saturate your strands with water. This is why washing often helps. It allows the water to fully soak into the shaft. DC’ing regularly makes sure your hair gets this healthy dose of prolonged moisture along with the conditioning agents in the conditioners and added oils.

Deep Conditioning, moisturising and sealing your hair often is the best recipe for healthy hair success (along with protein). It will keep your hair soft and maintain elasticity resulting in less breakage.

What does this mean for you? It means length retention. You will actually see your hair getting longer. Our hair is always growing but when not properly maintained it is always breaking, so we don’t see the growth. Following these steps will see your ends are fully capable of withstanding the test of time and you will finally begin to see your dreams of longer, fuller, healthier hair realised. I know i am!

 

 
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Posted by on July 25, 2010 in Deep Condition, Hair Care, Hair Care Basics, Moisturising

 

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Onion Juice & Curl Harmony – Week 3

21 Jun

This is my third week using the onion juice treatment and also reviewing the Curl Harmony products.

This week i pretty much did the same thing with the onion juice as i did last week: onion juice, bentonite clay and ACV to balance the pH. This time i also added in some essential oils of Rosemary, Tea-Tree and Eucalyptus. This really made a difference with the smell of the treatment. It helped a lot. You could still smell the onion but the essential oils did mask some of the smell and also added in their own benefits. My scalp was extra tingly and also cool at the same time. It was great. I applied it to my scalp and focused especially on my nape area. I left it on for about 45 mins before washing my hair.

 

Last night i saturated my hair with olive oil in preparation for shampooing, and sectioned it into four large twists. Put a plastic bag on and tied a headscarf over it ready for bed.

Once i was ready to wash my hair i jumped in the shower and rinsed the twists thoroughly before taking down a twist, rinsing that more until all the bentonite had rinsed off. I then took a few pumps of the Creamy Shampoo and smoothed that in gently until it was nice and foamy. I then scrubbed my scalp, using the balls of my fingers. I squeezed off the excess and rubbed in a dab of the Hydrating Conditioner before rinsing out. I then added more hydrating conditioner to the section and detangled carefully with a wide tooth comb followed by my modified Denman brush. I then twisted the section, still with the conditioner in and clipped it up before moving on to the next. Once i had shampooed and detangled all sections i then rinsed out the remaining conditioner with the twists in and towel dried.

The DC was the same as i did last week with, the Intensive Repair Deep Conditioner with added honey and olive oil. I applied it in sections and covered my hair with a plastic bag for about 30 mins. I rinsed out, towel dried, added in some leave-in conditioner and Shea Butter mix before slicking it back in a ponytail and twisting the tail into three twists, pinning it up. I was going to a barbeque so i couldn’t have my usual unsightly large braids that my husband so detests. lol. I had to cover my hair with a black headscarf to look presentable which was fine.

Next week will be my last week with the onion juice treatment and the curl harmony review. I’ll let you know my overall rating/opinion of both then.

 

Take Care.

 

 

 
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Posted by on June 21, 2010 in Bentonite & Rhassoul Clay, Deep Condition, Hair Care, Natural Hair Loss Remedies, Natural Product Brands, Onion Juice, Shampoo

 

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Onion Juice Treatment & Curl Harmony – Week 2

14 Jun

This week i tweaked the onion juice treatment slightly. I also took some pictures of what i did as i said i would in my previous post.

Onion The Onion i used

My Juicer I juiced the onion in my Champion Juicer

Muslin Then strained it through a muslin cloth to get rid of any little bits

Onion Juice Here is the resulting juice

Onion & Bentonite Next i added in some bentonite clay

Mixing And whisked it in until smooth. I used 2 teaspoons in all, adding it in 1/2 a teaspoon at a time.

pH Test The pH of the mix was between 6.5 and 7. This is considered acceptable for hair and scalp usage as it’s the same pH as water… But i wanted to bring the pH a little closer the scalps pH which is between 4.5 –5.5

pH Test with ACV So i decided to add in some ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar). Just a 1/4 teaspoon. That brought the pH right down to between 5 and 5.5. The darkness of the bentonite clay made it hard to read it properly but it was definitely in that range.

Applying HELLO! lol. This is what it looked like once i had applied it to my scalp and hairline.

Plastic Bag I then put a plastic bag over my head (Waitrose this time. ha) and left it on for about 30 – 45 mins

Curl Harmony Review

 

I used the Curl Harmony Cleansing Cream to wash my hair. I started by rinsing my hair thoroughly and then took down one of the sectioned twists. I let the water run through it some more before applying a liberal amount of the cleansing cream to the section. I rubbed my scalp well and massaged it into the ends and rinsed it out. I then applied some more of the Cleansing Conditioner and detangled, first with a wide tooth comb and then with my modified Denman brush. It detangled really well. I was very impressed. I think i like it more than the Hydrating Conditioner. But maybe that’s because i didn’t use enough of it last time. Because of the onion treatment i wasn’t scrimping with the Conditioner as i wanted to rid the smell as much as possible

Shed Hair Shed hair from detangling. I lost a little down the drain but this is most of it.

Cleansing Cond I hope you can see. I wanted to show you how much Cleansing Conditioner i used. I could make it last another 3 washes i think.

After detangling i retwisted the section, still with the conditioner in and repeated the process for the remaining 3 sections. Once i had finished detangling i rinsed my whole head with the twists in to remove the remaining conditioner. I towel dried and then DC’d with the…

CH Deep Cond Intensive Repair Deep Conditioner

Spoonful of DC I took 2 heaped teaspoonfuls of the conditioner and mixed it into some honey and olive oil.

Mixed DC Here’s what it looks like mixed together. Still super thick and creamy. Lovely.

Applying DC I applied it to my hair in sections. Taking down the twist apply the DC and re-twisting. Here’s what it looked like. If you look closely i haven’t applied it to the roots. I didn’t want to coat my scalp with it. I didn’t want any conditioner residue left on my scalp.

I covered my hair with another plastic bag (Tesco’s. ha) and left it on for about 30 mins. I rinsed my hair well under cool water without taking down the twists and towel dried.

Leave-in Cond & Shea Butter Mix My leave-in conditioner and Shea Butter Mix. This will be the first time i’m using it since i made it last week.

Working a section at a time i took down the twist and applied some of the leave-in conditioner and Shea Butter mix and sectioned my hair to ‘butter’ my scalp rubbing that in well. I then cornrowed the section and moved onto the next. My leave-in conditioner is really slippery. I like it. The consistency needs to be adjusted a little to be slightly creamier and thicker in texture. Other than that i’m really pleased.

Hair-Out A section of my hair after applying the products. It’s super shrinky. Look at the difference between the length of the braided section and the loose section.

Cornrows Cornrowed hair, ready to air-dry.

 

Take Care.

 

 
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Posted by on June 14, 2010 in Bentonite & Rhassoul Clay, Co-Wash, Deep Condition, Hair Care, Onion Juice, pH Balance, Pictures Of My Hair, Pre-Poo

 

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