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Get Your Hair Out!

The sun is shining!!! After such a wet spring, it’s nice to finally see some good weather. I thought i’d do a quick post on making the most of late spring, as for most of us, our hair has been hibernating all winter and throughout the dismal spring rains. It’s finally time to let your hair out and now is a good time do it.

I’ve had a few questions from ladies concerned with caring for their ‘free’ hair because they are either just coming out of transitioning or have been natural for some time but have kept their hair in braids/weaves for a while and need to re-connect with their hair.

My Advice

Get Your Basic Regime In Order

Think about how you’re going to care for your hair. It’s going to be a daily affair from now on so it’s best you know how to work with it. Think of the basics. How often you’ll wash, condition, deep condition and use protein treatments. How often will you moisturise and seal your ends? And what products will you use? As the weather warms up the heavier products can be traded in for lighter ones as you may find you will moisturise and seal more often and you don’t want lots of greasy build-up unless you’ll be washing your hair more often too. Once you’ve decided on your regime it’s important to stick with it! You can adapt it as you begin to learn your hair’s characteristics, what it likes and doesn’t but overall be consistent with your hair care. It’s the biggest key to successfully maintaining healthy hair.

If you’re not sure where to start, i’d recommend you take a look at my Hairducation page. I’ve grouped together posts i’ve written about caring for natural hair. Start with the ‘Getting To Know Your Hair’ series and then read your way through the ‘Caring For Natural Hair’ posts. I also recommend reading the articles i’ve written on the Dia’s Website such as ‘Building A Regime’. It should help to give you an idea of how you could put your own regime together.

Prepare

Don’t just go head first into your hair. Prepare first. We’ve already looked at finding a basic regime. Think of what you’ll need to make handling your hair easier. Think of the styling tools such as combs, hair bands, pins and clips you’ll need to style your hair. Research your products and buy them in advance, ready for when you are.

Find A Style

I know there are those who are anxious about ‘freeing’ their hair because they fear they may not find a style that will suit them. My advice is find just one simple style that you like and that you can easily do yourself and stick with it for a while. It can be as simple as a bun. Just because your hair is out of braids doesn’t mean it has be in a grand afro (it’s fine if that’s what you want, lol). The goal here is to get comfortable with styling your hair daily and trying to be overly complex with your styles can lead to frustration if they don’t turn out well. Take it one step at a time. What you’ll find is most naturals (and all ladies really, including myself) have a go to style that’s simple and that works. And all they do is create variations of the same style. That’s what you need to find. After you find that style and have gotten comfortable with handling and styling your hair on a daily basis you will find yourself becoming more confident and adventurous with the styles you create. Remember, protective styles that tuck away the ends of your hair are best if you are trying to grow/retain length.

Accessorise

I love the way a hair flower can turn a boring bun into an exotic and sophisticated style. Accessories such as bands, bows, flowers and clips work wanders in transforming simple styles into something with more ‘wow’. Believe me, you can do the same style every day and just switch up the accessories. You’ll be surprised as to how different they make the style look. They can also be a point of inspiration. If you find a piece you like, it can spark a spot of creativity as you think of a way of incorporating that accessory into a hair style.

BE YOURSELF!

Most of all i’ll say, be yourself. It’s ok if you’re not the kind to fuss over your hair. It’s ok if you prefer simple styles over elaborate ones. It’s ok if you do. Don’t feel pressure to look a certain way. Your hair is just an extension of yourself and you should feel comfortable with who you are. Just do you!

I hope these tips help. Talk soon!

Getting To Know Your Hair–pH & Hair

12 Oct

So far, we’ve discussed what healthy hair is and what three things are key in maintaining healthy hair – moisture, protein and pH. I’ve talked about the first two, moisture and protein and how to maintain the correct moisture/protein balance with regular wet testing. Today i’m continuing the ‘Getting To Know Your Hair’ series with a brief outline of what pH is and how it affects the health of our hair.

What is pH?

pH stands for ‘potential of hydrogen’ or ‘hydrogen strength’ and refers to the acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous (water based) solution relative to the concentration of hydrogen ions present. The level of pH is measured on a logarithmic scale of 0 – 14 with 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. In the middle we have pH 7 which is considered neutral as it has an equal balance of acidity and alkalinity. Water has a pH of 7 (hard water can measure pH 8!). pH 0 – 6.9 are acidic in nature and pH 7.1 – 14 are alkaline (base or caustic).

pH on a logarithmic scale is measured in multiples of 10 so every number on the scale is 10x more alkaline or acidic than the previous number. Example: pH 6 is 10x more acidic than pH 7, pH 5 is 10x more acidic than pH 6 and 100x (10×10) more acidic than pH 7. pH 8 is 10x more alkaline than pH 7 and pH 9 is 10x more alkaline than pH 8 and 100x (10×10) more alkaline than pH 7. It’s a little confusing i know, but it does help to know this (honestly).

What pH is Our Hair?

Our hair and skins pH measures between 4.0 – 5.5 so our hair is acidic in nature. In order to maintain optimal hair health we should try and keep our hair within this range.

How pH Affects Our Hair

pH greatly affects the way in which our hair looks, feels and behaves.

How Acidity Affects Our Hair

In it’s optimal pH range of 4.0 to 5.5 the cuticles of our hair lie flat against one another contributing to a smooth look and feel and allows light to bounce off well, giving our hair lovely shine or sheen. Closed cuticles protect the shaft from external damage and allows the strands to move around each other without causing damage. If we decrease the pH of our hair further, then the cuticles continue to tighten and tighten. Solutions or products with a pH lower than 3 will begin to corrode or eat away at the hair & scalp causing damage.

How Alkalinity Affects Our Hair

If we raise the pH of our hair above 5.5 the shaft begins to swell and the cuticles will begin to lift or open. Raised cuticles will allow more moisture into our hair but will also allow more moisture out. Lifted cuticles expose the hairs cortex and provides limited protection. Hair in this state is considered weak and susceptible to further damage. Lifted cuticles cause the hair to look dull and rough and each strand can tangle on the next causing more damage to the cuticle layer. The higher the pH the more our hair swells and our cuticles lift incurring more and more damage. Solutions or products with a pH of 10 or more will begin to dissolve the hair and scalp causing damage. Permanent hair dyes and relaxers are extremely alkaline (pH values between 10 and 13) and work by lifting the cuticles so the chemicals can deposit onto and alter the cortex/main structure of the hair. Highly alkaline solutions weaken the disulfide bonds in the hair and can alter it’s structure permanently.

Maintaining Healthy Hair With pH

Our goal here is to maintain the hairs optimal pH range of between 4.0 and 5.5 and thus keep it nice and healthy. All products containing water have a pH value and it’s important that our water based products such as shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins and moisturisers be within this range. Remember, water is 100 – 1000 times more alkaline than our hair so even a quick warm water rinse will cause the cuticles to lift slightly. If we dry our hair and apply oil or butter straight onto our hair after rinsing with warm water, the cuticles will remain open causing a slight feel of roughness and less sheen or shine. We should always try to restore or rebalance our hairs pH. It’s important, then, to use a water based, pH balanced (acidic) leave-in or moisturiser after washing our hair to bring the pH back down and close the cuticles before sealing with an oil or butter. A final rinse of diluted ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) also serves this purpose. Aloe Vera is also a great ingredient choice for hair moisturisers and spritzes as its pH value is around 4. This way we ensure our cuticles are closed, that moisture is retained well and our hair is stronger and less susceptible to damage.

The last post in this series will be on porosity and how it affects our hair, including how to correct any porosity issues.

Until next time!

6 Comments

Posted by mercz on October 12, 2011 in Getting To Know Your Hair, pH & Hair, pH Balance, Science Of Hair

Tags: Acid, Alkaline, Hair, healthy hair, lifted cuticles, Natural Hair Care, Neutral, pH, pH Balance, pH Scale, smooth hair

Dia’s New & Improved Creamy Leave-In Conditioner – Out Now!

20 Jul

Dia’s – All Natural is proud to bring you the new & improved Creamy Leave-In Conditioner.

This leave-in has been reformulated to bring you even softer, silkier, smoother hair. Thick and rich to coat each strand and add instant softness whilst aiding detangling. pH balanced to smooth down cuticles and maintain healthy hair. Perfect for thick, dry curly & kinky hair types.

For more information and to order yours click HERE

It’s taken me a while but it’s finally ready. My leave-in conditioner has come a long way since i first blogged about it. Even though the old formula was good, i decided to tinker around with it to see if i could improve on it’s performance. I took some ingredients out and added in some new ones, played with ratios and consistencies until i was happy with what we have today. I’m so proud of it and i KNOW you will not be disappointed!

I use it as a leave-in after washing and conditioning on damp hair and as a moisturiser during the week on dry hair to add moisture and softness before sealing. It works like a dream!!!!

Here’s a breakdown of the new ingredients

Herbal Infusion - With Marshmallow root, White Willow Bark, Blue Malva, Nettle, Chamomile, Hibiscus, Coltsfoot, Horsetail, Burdock Root and Rose Petals. Full of vitamins, minerals and mucilage. This blend of hair loving herbs are good for conditioning and detangling, naturally preventing dandruff, soothing scalp irritation, adding body, sheen and lustre, promoting healthy hair growth and preventing breakage and split ends.

Aloe Vera Juice - Contains many nutrients including amino acids, minerals, enzymes, vitamins, saccharine, anthraquinone, lignin, sterols and many more. The enzymes help activate fresh growth and stimulates the growth of existing hair by stabilizing the follicular cycle. Helps to restore the hair and scalps pH balance. Is a cellular regenerator with anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties, helps to treat and heal red, itchy and unhealthy scalps. Also smoothes the hair’s cuticles and imparts shine to the hair.

BTMS – A highly effective yet mild cationic self-emulsifying wax with outstanding conditioning properties. Provides excellent wet hair comb-through and detangling and leaves a soft, powdery after-feel. Ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Avocado Oil – Cold-pressed. Rich in nutrients, amino acids, and essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B, D, and E. Excellent for enhancing hair health. Nourishes the hair follicles and the scalp promoting the growth of new hair cells. Has natural humectant properties, adding and locking in moisture. Gives hair a glossy shine and silky texture and is particularly useful for dry, damaged and chemically treated hair.

Coconut Oil – Virgin, Cold-pressed and Certified Organic. The molecular structure of coconut oil makes it easier to penetrate through the hair shaft and works with the natural hair proteins. Helps to condition, moisturise and strengthen your hair and reduces damage to the hair cuticle during combing. Also used to treat conditions like dry scalp or fungal conditions like seborrhoeic dermatitis that cause itchy flakes.

Cetyl Alcohol – A vegetable fatty alcohol derived from palmitic acid (palm oil fatty acid). Adds body and thickness to products. Imparts a smooth, emollient feel and glide. Works in conjunction with cationic quaternary compounds like BTMS to increase the conditioning agent’s substantivity.

Glycerine - A humectant extracted from coconuts. Moisturises by drawing water from the air (or in the product) into the skin and hair. Also adds slip to aid easier combing. Provides a smooth, silky feeling and adds gloss.

Panthenol - Penetrates deep into the skin and hair shaft and has excellent water-binding abilities. It creates a protective film aiding moisture retention. Helps strengthen the hair by imparting an elastic film inside and out, which also helps thicken the hair and leaves it feeling soft, silky and easy to handle.

Honeyquat – Naturally derived quaternized conditioning agent made from honey, exhibiting excellent moisture binding capabilities. Due to its low molecular weight, can easily penetrate the hair shaft to provide moisture to dry, dull hair. Also helps restore shine and lustre. Helps reduce static build-up and improves wet combing.

Cetrimonium Chloride – A cationic quaternary conditioning agent that softens hair and provides excellent detangling properties. Deposits itself onto the cuticle of the hair, helping create a smoother surface and also reducing static-induced flyaway hair. Not a silicone or silicone derivative.

Crambe Seed Oil – Organic, Cold-pressed. Provides enhanced slip/lubricity and protection. An excellent natural lubricant and emollient which has a unique skin-feel, combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties, without feeling too greasy. An ideal natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones and is similar to Broccoli Seed Oil with both around 50% Erucic Acid (C22:1), an Omega-9 fatty acid that helps to give a glossy shine to hair just like silicone. It also gives shine and gloss to dull and lifeless skin.

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Chlorphenesin – Broad spectrum Parabens-free and Formaldehyde-free preservation system. Active against Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeasts and moulds.

Vitamin E – A powerful anti-oxidant, protecting the skin, hair and scalp from harmful free radicals. Penetrates deep into the cells, helps activate cell proliferation, helps promote wound healing and may reduce UV-induced damage. A powerful moisturiser. Due to it’s anti-oxidant properties, Vitamin E prolongs the shelf life of oils preventing them from going rancid too quickly.

Essential Oils – Makes the product smell nice and also adds their properties. Includes lavender and geranium.

Guar Conditioning Gum – Derived from guar gum. Softens and conditions whilst forming a protective barrier to help control flyaway and frizzy hair.

Hydrolysed Wheat Protein – Provides excellent film forming properties and can absorb up to twice its weight of water. Is ideal for retaining water levels and moisturising the skin and hair. Helps strengthen the skin and hair and repairs damage. Hairs porosity is reduced leaving it feeling smoother and softer and improves shine and lustre.

Citric Acid – pH adjuster to bring the products pH range down to a suitable acidic level for optimal hair & skin health.

4 Comments

Posted by mercz on July 20, 2011 in Dia's - All Natural, Natural Product Brands

Tags: Avocado oil, BTMS, Coconut Oil, Dia's - All Natural, Guar Conditioning Gum, Herbs, Honeyquat, Leave-In Conditioner, Natural Hair Care, Natural hair Products

Dia’s Shea Hair & Scalp Oil – Out Now!

19 Jul

Dia’s – All Natural Shea Hair & Scalp Oil is now available to order.

It’s a Lovely rich hair oil that will soften and nourish your strands. Excellent for sealing in moisture, adding extra sheen and maintaining a healthy scalp. Shea Oil has been mixed with Safflower, Jojoba and Wheatgerm Oils to create a hair loving blend that’s naturally high in Vitamin E & essential fatty acids. For more information and to order yours, click HERE.

I personally love Shea Oil. It’s not a very common oil and it’s not easily available which is why i wanted to make it more accessible to everyone. It’s a wonderfully thick oil that reminds me of castor oil in consistency and is a great alternative, although it’s not as ‘sticky’ and is easier to spread. A very smooth feeling oil that translates into smooth feeling hair. I find this a very softening oil that leaves my hair feeling great, without being too greasy. You really only need a small amount of it to get the job done because it’s so rich which makes it quite economical.

Here’s a break down of the ingredients used

Shea Oil – Made by removing the stearic fatty acid that makes Shea butter solid. What’s left is a rich, thick liquid that possesses all the original properties of Shea butter, high in vitamins A, E and F, Keratin, Allontoin and Oleic fatty acids. Excellent for thicker, drier hair types, Shea Oil will impart incredible softness without being overly greasy whilst protecting your strands from the harsh natural elements.

Safflower Oil – Extremely rich in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, it is highly beneficial for dry, colour treated or permed hair. When applied to the scalp, it can dilate the blood vessels, resulting in greater nutrients supplied to the hair follicles through blood circulation and a healthy environment for hair regrowth. It also comprises high levels of Vitamin E, alpha-tocopherol and phytosterols.

Jojoba Oil – Organic, unrefined & cold pressed. Is chemically very similar to human sebum and promotes healthy hair and scalp. Is antibacterial and can help soothe a dry, irritated scalp. Excellent used to lock in moisture and is great for all hair types.

Wheatgerm Oil – Cold pressed. A highly rich oil full of vitamins E, A and D. Also very high in protein and lecithin. Will soften and strengthen your strands and nourish your scalp.

Essential Oils – Makes it smell nice and includes Rosemary essential oil to stimulate the scalps circulation and encourage growth.

Twisted Buttercreme – Out Now!

02 Jun

It’s been a labour of love perfecting this formula and i’m pleased to announce that my all new Twisted Buttercreme is now available to order! Available sizes – 100ml (200ml coming soon).

This pH balanced styling creme is great for adding light hold to styles including braid-outs, twist-outs etc, to help give great definition that lasts whilst moisturising and smoothing your strands. Will help to keep braided styles neater for longer and is great for smoothing edges for a neater finish to your styles. To learn more about it and order yours click here.

I personally use this after i’ve finished washing my hair and after applying the Leave-In Conditioner. I smooth it onto my hair rubbing it in really well and then braid or twist and let it air-dry. When it’s dry, i take it out and style it. It keeps my twist/braid-outs well defined for much longer. I find that a light misting of spritz re-activates the creme so i don’t really need to apply much more for another hairstyle after the initial application. I also use it to slick my edges down when i’m going for a sleeker look. I find it works really well for me in this area too, without leaving my hair crunchy and flaky.

I also use it on my daughters hair to keep her cornrows or braided styles neater. I find that using this allows her hair to ‘keep’ much better so that at the end of the week her hair is not looking too crazy. lol

It’s a great new addition to the Dia’s – All Natural (up and coming) range. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Here is a breakdown of the ingredients used:

Deionised Water – (not much explaining here). It’s water that’s been deionised to make it purer.

Shea Butter – An effective emollient that moisturises and helps improve hairs elasticity. Soothes, Hydrates, balances and revitalises hair and scalp, giving a radiant shine and a luxurious healthy appearance. Rich in vitamins A and E, Shea butter soothes dryness, minimises breakage and protects hair from weather damage caused by wind, humidity, and extreme dryness.

BTMS (Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) – A highly effective yet mild cationic self-emulsifying wax with outstanding conditioning properties. Provides excellent wet hair comb-through and detangling and leaves a soft, powdery after-feel. Ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Castor Seed Oil – Very rich in ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and other fatty acids which possesses anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties and is ideal for irritated skin conditions. Has a high fat content and is absorbed slowly by the body. Used to soothe and moisturise dry skin and hair. Helps maintain moisture levels and alleviate irritated scalp conditions. Imparts a natural glossy sheen. Naturally draws out dirt to help maintain a clean, healthy scalp.

Coconut Oil – The molecular structure of coconut oil makes it easier to penetrate through the hair shaft and works with the natural hair proteins. Helps to condition, moisturise & strengthen hair and reduces damage to the hair cuticle during combing. Also used to treat conditions like dry scalp or fungal conditions like seborrhoeic dermatitis that cause itchy flakes.

Glycerine (Veg) – A humectant extracted from coconut. Moisturises by drawing water from the air (or in the product) into the skin and hair. Provides a smooth, silky feeling and adds gloss.

Panthenol – Pro-vitamin B5. Penetrates deep into the skin and hair shaft and has excellent water-binding abilities. It creates a protective film aiding moisture retention. Helps strengthen the hair by imparting an elastic film inside and out, which also helps thicken the hair and leaves it feeling soft, silky and easy to handle.

Jojoba Oil – Very similar to the scalp’s sebum and works well with all hair types. Has many therapeutic properties including the ability to protect moisture loss, protect hair health and improve the condition of damaged hair.

Avocado Oil – Rich in nutrients, amino acids, and essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B, D, and E. Excellent for enhancing hair health. Nourishes the hair follicles and the scalp promoting the growth of new hair cells. Has natural humectant properties, adding and locking in moisture. Gives hair a glossy shine and silky texture and is particularly useful for dry, damaged and chemically treated hair.

Essential Oils – Makes it smell pretty and adds their own benefits.

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Chlorphenesin – Broad spectrum Parabens-free and Formaldehyde-free preservation system. Active against Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeasts and moulds.

d-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – A powerful anti-oxidant, protecting the skin, hair and scalp from harmful free radicals. Penetrates deep into the cells, helps activate cell proliferation, helps promote wound healing and may reduce UV-induced damage. A powerful moisturiser.

Citric Acid – pH adjuster. Brings the pH of the product down to a more suitable level for optimum skin, scalp & hair heath.

Hydrolysed Wheat Protein – Provides excellent film forming properties and can absorb up to twice its weight of water. Is ideal for retaining water levels and moisturising the skin and hair. Helps strengthen the skin and hair and repairs damage. Porosity of the hair is reduced leaving it feeling smoother and softer and improves shine and lustre.

Guar Conditioning Gum – Derived from guar gum. Softens and conditions whilst forming a protective barrier to help control flyaway and frizzy hair.

Cellulose Gum – Derived from plant fibres. Makes a fully clear, transparent and stable Gel. Adds hold.

3 Comments

Posted by mercz on June 2, 2011 in Dia's - All Natural

Tags: Natural Hair Care, Styling Creme, Twisted Buttercreme

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