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Q&A: How Do You Work Out Your Hair Type?

Question:

Fayola asks: Could you do something on how to work out your hair type?

I have loose curls/waves. They aren’t like spirals, more like a short frizzy bodywave. I don’t seem to fit into any of the category 3 or 4 descriptions I’ve read and obviously category 1 and 2 aren’t applicable due to my ethnicity!
It would really help me understand how to look after my hair appropriately and would help me choose the right products.

Answer:

Hi Fayola, thanks for your question.

Hair typing can help identify the kind of hair that you have in terms of curl pattern. Determining the kind of curl pattern you have can help you choose products and hairstyles that are more appropriate for you.

As black or mixed race women, our hair type generally falls under the categories of 3 and 4 (Andre’s typing system). But it can be quite difficult to accurately determine the type of curl that you have against this system. Our curls can span from wavy to tightly coiled and may not necessarily fall under any one type. Some women (like me) have more than one type of curl pattern on our head. Mine is 4b in the middle and 4a round the front of my hairline.

Some women prefer to go with other systems but i’ve used the most popular one for ease of identification.

The best thing to do is look for the type that is closest to your hair.

The hair typing system is more about the degree of curl rather than race (i believe). So if your hair falls under type 2 for instance, then that’s fine. It does sound to me like you just might have a 2c hair type (or even 2b). If you don’t feel 100% comfortable with this than go with 3a (if that’s the next closest) and look for products and hair styles that will work for this type. You should still get good results from identifying with this type.

Here are some hair typing charts i found.

Type 1

Type 2

Type 3

Type 4

The chart below expands a little bit more on the curl patterns to include more sub-types as most people feel that afro hair cannot be categorised in just 6 sub-types. (But remember, most go with the chart above).

 

Also check out this post on hair typing here on the black hair media forum for a more in-depth chart of the different types of curl in each hair type.

There are others as i said before like the LOIS typing system but some do find it a little confusing.

Here is an article all about understanding hair types (It’s very long – 9 pages, but very helpful) and even introduces a new system to include 5 groups and no sub categories. Very Interesting indeed.

How can I tell what kind of curl I have?

My best advice would be to examine your hair while it’s wet or loaded with conditioner as this shows your true curl pattern. Obviously this is easiest whilst washing your hair.

So, the next time you’re co-washing or shampooing, keep a mirror close by to view how your hair looks when wet. It’s also a good idea to take pictures of it for your records. Pictures also make it easier to match up your hair to the charts above.

Shed hair can also be used for this purpose. When detangling, keep a few strands of your hair from your comb or brush and wet it. You can also take pictures of these, then compare it to the charts above.

Remember nothing is set in stone. You may not necessarily fall into any one category. Some people don’t even follow the hair typing system at all. They just feel their way out with their hair.

 

I hope this helps Fayola.

 

 

If anyone has any questions they want answered email me at NaturalHair.Advice@Gmail.com

 

 
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Posted by on October 22, 2010 in How Do You Work Out Your Hair Type?, Q&A

 

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Q&A: Is Sea Salt Good or Bad For Our Hair?

In the last Q&A post Nikeisha asked: I have heard people say that taking a dip in the sea helps with skin and hair problems.. is this due to the country/climate one lives in or is it a myth. If I were to wash my hair with some sea salt in the water would it cause my hair to weaken?

Answer:

Unfortunately i can’t really give a definite answer here. I searched and searched but couldn’t find any hard and fast facts about the effects of sea salt on hair. It seems that sea salt and regular salt have the same effects on hair irrespective of climate/country.

The Good

The research i did suggested that salt makes hair very soft and smooth and adds volume. Salt can be found in shampoos and conditioners for these very reasons. Most of these articles were written by Caucasians so… not sure if it applies to us. However, i came across a black blog ‘The Kingdom of Kiya’ and this controversial post talked about how she stumbled upon the unusual effects of salt on her kinky hair. In conclusion salt seems to make her hair very soft and smooth when mixed with conditioner and used as a treatment. Very interesting indeed. Read it for yourself here and come to your own conclusion.

The Bad

Salt is a natural abrasive. If salt is left in the hair for too long then it can rub away at the cuticles and also the scalp causing damage and hair loss. Salt also draws out water. It is dehydrating when used excessively. So again salt in the hair can cause dryness. It also strips hair of oil and can take off the outer keratin coating of the hair, as it can break down protein bonds, leading to excessive dryness. That is why it is recommended to wash your hair often when exercising. All the salt in sweat can have these negative effects and build up in your hair if you exercise regularly (everyday or every other day) and lead to breakage. So there may be positive effects of sweating on the hair but it can quickly turn negative if left on.

Conclusion

It MIGHT actually be beneficial to use salt in a treatment of some sort such as a deep condition, pre-poo treatment or salt rinse and left in only for a short amount of time (maybe 15-30 mins or so) and  used irregularly, say… once a month (if that). If you exercise intensively and sweat loads then you may already get some of the benefits of salt in the hair and may not need to experiment with any extra salt as it could very well be salt overload for you, but make sure you wash your hair regularly after each intensive workout if possible, to remove the salt deposited by the sweat. I may even give it a try just to be sure for MYSELF. However, i would suggest using it with caution and only as a wash out treatment. I would not recommend using salt in any kind of leave-in product where it will not be washed out due to the negative effects stated above.

So… salt may have some benefits for our hair but i personally would not recommended it for regular or prolonged use.

 

Hope this helps.

 

If you or anyone decides to give a salt treatment of some sort a try then leave a comment here and let me know how it went.

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Q&A: What’s The Difference Between Bottled and Distilled Water For Hair Purposes?

Question:

Nikeisha asks: Is there a distinct difference between bottled water and distilled water if using on the hair?

and

Also, I have heard people say that taking a dip in the sea helps with skin and hair problems.. is this due to the country/climate one lives in or is it a myth. If I were to wash my hair with some sea salt in the water would it cause my hair to weaken?

Answer:

Hi Nikeisha. Thanks for your questions.

I’ll answer the first question here and the second in another post.

It may seem like a really simple question but really it’s not, so i’m going to have to break it up into sections to get a full understanding of the answer. Here goes!

The Problem With Tap Water

All my research definitely suggests that tap (hard) water is very bad for our hair and skin as the chlorine and other chemicals deposited in the water can have a very negative effect.

Your skin is a living sponge that absorbs virtually anything that comes in contact with it. That is one reason your skin is so vulnerable to chemicals in water. Chlorine oxides are formed when chlorine enters the skin. These chlorine oxides are linked to aging, freckles, and skin de-pigmentation, and itchy/ flaky skin. Chlorine dries out hair, makes it brittle, and leaves it looking dull and damaged. (3).

Like your skin, your hair is "wide open" when it is in hot water and it absorbs the chlorine, which strips the hair shaft of its natural oils, leaving it dry and dull. Also, chlorine and other chemicals found in tap water can interfere with and shorten the "life" of hair colouring, highlights and other hair treatments.

Tap water often contains at least as much, if not more, chlorine than is recommended for use in swimming pools.(2)

So if you live in a hard water area it is certainly worthwhile to invest in purer , softer water for better health benefits, including skin and hair. The biggest question is what kind of purified water is better?

So What Is the Difference Between Bottled and Distilled?

Distilled water is the product of distillation, meaning the original water source has been converted into steam and then cooled down until it condenses into its final distilled form. This means heavy minerals and metals such as salt and iron do not generally survive the conversion to steam and are left behind as residue. Distilled water contains only scant traces of the minerals contained in natural spring water and other water sources.(1)

Bottled water, however, may not necessarily be better than tap water in some instances. “An estimated 25 percent or more of bottled water is really just tap water in a bottle—sometimes further treated, sometimes not.” (2)

Types of bottled water

The UK Food Safety Administration list three types of bottled water for consumption. Natural mineral water is water that originates from an underground table or deposit which emerges from a spring and is tapped at one or more natural exits. Spring Water originates from an underground water source, is bottled at the source and satisfies biological labelling requirements. Bottled drinking water is drinking water that doesn’t come from a spring or natural mineral source and may come from a variety of sources, including municipal supplies.

Natural Mineral Water

  • Natural mineral water must come from a recognized spring and must be tapped from a natural exit. The spring must be free from pollution, and certain information about the source must be known. The water’s physical and chemical characteristics must be analysed. In addition, this information should be gathered over time to make sure the properties of the water remain consistent and for quality control purposes.

    Spring Water

  • Spring water should come from an aquifer or other water deposit point. Its chemical composition need not be constant; however, it must be bottled at the source to be labelled spring water. Bacterial colony counts and other biological data should be consistently checked. Spring water is intended for consumption without treatment and its label should include information on the spring from which the water was taken.

    Bottled Drinking Water

  • Bottled drinking water has no restrictions on treatments as long as these treatments don’t make the water unsuitable for human consumption. However, this water must meet certain safety guidelines set forth by the Food Safety Administration.(4)

    My Suggestion

    From all that we’ve learned, distilled water seems to be better than bottled water for the purposes of washing our hair as we just can’t be sure of the quality of the bottled water we are buying.

    But MY question now is – is distilled water better than filtered water for our hair?

    The reason why we need purified water to wash our hair, as stated above, is because it contains much less toxins, harsh chemicals and mineral deposits that can be damaging to our delicate hair and scalp. Distilled water is definitely one road to travel but is it worth the necessary expense. In my opinion No. A shower filter is much cheaper than a constant demand for distilled water and most last from 6 months to a year. They focus on removing toxins such as chlorine and hard mineral deposits out of the water for a much safer showering experience. Depending on the filter you buy will depend on the results that you get so shop around and do your research first before you buy one. If you can afford one, then a whole house filter system will be perfect, a bit costly to install but well worth the investment. You can also buy little filter balls to put in your bath if you don’t have a shower.

    And there you have it. A consistent flow of purer water for healthier hair!

    However if this is not possible and tap/hard water is all that’s available at this time, don’t worry too much as using a chelating shampoo once in a while is great at removing the minerals deposited in your hair.

     

    Sorry for the length of the post but it was a lot to get through. I hope this helps.

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    1. Source – WiseGeek.com
    2. Source -  AllAboutWater.org
    3. Source – Thefreewaterreport.org
    4. Source – UK Food standard Agency Guidelines

     
     

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    Any Questions?

    If you have any questions concerning any of the things that i’ve blogged about – from the alternative treatments to air-drying and styling to products, you can get in contact with me at this email address:

    NaturalHair.Advice@Gmail.com

    I don’t profess to know everything but i will try to help where i can. If i don’t know the answer i will do as much research as i can to learn about the answers to your question and queries and get back to you. I love to learn so this is a great opportunity for me to expand my knowledge.

    So again –

    • Questions on hair care – Thinking of going natural, transitioning or fully natural,
    • Problems with hair loss and/or irritated scalp issues,
    • Need help putting a good hair care routine together,
    • Or anything you feel i may be able to advise you on or help you with i am here to help.

    So that email address again is…

    NaturalHair.Advice@Gmail.com

    If i get some really interesting questions i will even post it up on the blog.

     

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    Posted by on October 10, 2010 in Hair Care, Q&A

     

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