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TKC: Chelating v. Clarifying Shampoos

By Kelly

 

 

 

 

Clarifying Shampoos are a must for hair carers, but is it enough? Do you need a little more?

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What is a Chelating Shampoo?

Chelating shampoos are for lifting dulling, mineral deposits (and random ions) that have attached to your hair (mainly in hard water situations.) Some people use them as a pre cursor to a chemical service to help free up the cuticle and get “better” relaxer results. It can also be used after a relaxer (especially if the relaxer is no-lye) to help remove some of the deposits relaxers leave behind.

Regular shampoos can’t remove the minerals; they can only remove product build-up. Minerals really bind onto the hair and don’t just wash off. Not even a clarifying shampoo can lift the minerals off, hence the need for a chelating shampoo.

Chelating shampoos are sometimes referred to as swimmers shampoos because they remove chlorine deposits and such. Some swimmer’s shampoos are also chelating formulas, too

Clarifying Shampoos:

Clarifying shampoos are mainly for lifting everyday products and other build-up from the strands. Some clarifying shampoos contain chelating ingredients (ex. EDTA), but those ingredients are typically used in those other shampoo formulas as preservatives and/or pH balancers. Look for a chelating shampoo that specifically says that it is formulated to either chelate or lift mineral deposits because ingredients can throw you off.

How Do You Know If You Need To Chelate Or Clarify?

Chelating shampoos are only really necessary if you have hard water, are a swimmer, or you relax with no-lye formulas. They are specifically formulated to lift mineral deposits from the hair, and they can also clarify since they are generally stronger shampoo formulas. Occasionally you’ll see a clarifying formula that also chelates like Kenra Clarifying Shampoo.

Plain old, regular product build up tends to result in limp, weighed down feeling hair. It also tends to feel dry and may even have a bit of breakage, but not to the magnitude of mineral-laden hair. Mineral build-up results in hair that is excessively dry and straw-like despite conditioning. Faded colours (for colour-treated hair especially,) and even some brassy weird tones on natural hair colours. Breakage occurs pretty easily. If your water lathers poorly in general with soap and shampoos, your water is hard and you could be in need of a chelating shampoo. Also, if your water makes your skin feel dry after a shower or bathing, you’ve probably got some hard water.

So, If you aren’t a swimmer, a no-lye user, or don’t have hard water, you really don’t need a chelating shampoo.  A clarifying shampoo will do everything you need (and some clarifiers actually contain chelating ingredients like EDTA).  A clarifier won’t work well if you have hard water.  So if your shampoo isn’t lathering well, you’re clarifying and your hair still feels coated, your hair colour has a strange cast to it, and just feels rough and ‘tangly’ in the shower, you probably have hard water and you might benefit from a chelating shampoo.

If you don’t fit the description for a chelating shampoo (and/or aren’t sure if you have hard water) but you want one just in case – I’d use one once a month or every couple of months just for maintenance.

How often should you use a Chelating Shampoo?

Swimmers use chelating shampoo formulas often. My daughter swims twice a week and I use it in her hair twice a month because the swimming cap still lets all the water in and her hair is pretty much drenched when she comes out of the pool. If I feel that it is too much for her hair, I cut back and just use a clarifier or give her hair a really deep condition plus treatments. If you have hard water, then you need it more often too – but once a month or every couple of months is the most common.

Note: It can dry out your hair if you don’t deep condition it afterwards.

Chelating Agents Are:

Disodium EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate AKA Trisodium Citrate

What Chelating Shampoos are there?

Most chelating shampoos will say that they are.  Some popular chelating shampoos are:

  • Pureology Purify Shampoo – sulfate free – best reputation
  • Kenra Clarifying – chelating formula and clarifier in one – good reviews as does not over strip the hair. Also does not contain SLS as many others do.
  • Shampoo Three’ by Paul Mitchell
  • Joico K-Pac Chelating Poo
  • L’anza Swim & Sun Daily Chelating Shampoo
  • Mizani Phormula 7 Neutralizing and Chelating Shampoo Aveda Detox
  • Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo is chelating  (removes minerals)
  •   RESOLVE® Chelating Shampoo from Joico
  •   Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo
  •   Nexxus Aloe Rid
  •   Nexxus – Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo
  •   Ouidad Water Works
  •   Artec Texturline Daily Clarifying Shampoo

Some have joked that Johnsons Baby Shampoo fits the bill as it contains Tetrasodium EDTA and contains no SLS!

The Benefits:

There would be nothing blocking the penetration of healthy hair products and you’d only need to use it once a month or so, so the bottle will last more than a year with that little of use.

Yes, it would have a slight stripped feeling but after deep conditioning afterwards, you will notice a difference in how your hair took to your conditioning treatment because chelating makes your hair like a blank canvas.

Some naturals have never used a chelating shampoo, and find that clarifying works just as well.

The choice is yours.

If you choose to use one of the above products or another that you’ve found, please review and let me know how you got on. Can’t wait…


 
5 Comments

Posted by on June 24, 2011 in Kelly

 

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TKC: The Kitchen Cupboard by Kelly

Sanitary Wear – Is It Safe?

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If you’ve never considered that sanitary towels & tampons could be unhealthy, think again.

The ingredients in many products are not good for us and can make skin irritations, allergies and soreness worse.  The safest material is 100% organic cotton, yet every month many women continue to use ‘unhealthy’ products that contain rayon – for absorbency, cellulose gel – to make the pad thin, chlorine – to bleach the colour, latex, binders and other non essential ingredients.

Many women experience Allergic Feminine Irritation (AFI) and think they have thrush, or another similar bacteria related discharge, and  In a survey of UK gynaecologists, “75% believe that conventional sanitary protection could be the cause of intimate irritation.“   Gynaecological tests also concur that the safest material is 100% organic cotton.

Bleaching exposes women and the pads/tampons to Dioxin, which can build up in the body. Dioxin is potentially carcinogenic, linked to cancer, toxic to the immune system and reproductive systems and has been linked to low sperm counts in men and endometriosis.

Let’s take a further look at Dioxin.

Various sources of Dioxin

The chemical 2,3,7,8 –TCDD belonging to the Dioxin family of chemicals has the unsavoury reputation of being labelled ‘the most toxic chemical on Earth.’
Certain forms of Dioxin are created naturally, through forest fires and volcanoes but the larger bulk of the chemical is primarily produced as a by-product of modern day manufacturing processes. It is a contaminant that is created during the manufacture of chlorine containing products such as wood preservatives, pesticides and it is a by-product of the paper bleaching process. It is also created during a variety of burning processes such as rubbish incineration and the burning of fossil fuels.

Other forms of Dioxin are widely used in domestic environments, where they are used in homes to control weeds in lawns and gardens.

Also 2,4,5-T was one of the active ingredients in the herbicide family known as Agent Orange that was used to spray 3.6 million acres of Jungle during the Vietnam War.

The Dangers of Dioxin

Initial lab tests on a variety of animals showed Dioxin to be a lethal carcinogen. It was, for instance a thousand times more poisonous to guinea pigs than arsenic. It also gained some notoriety when in 1997, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) a part of the WHO, classed 2,3,7,8-TCDD as a group 1 carcinogen meaning that it was a known human carcinogen. Also a recent study carried out in July 2002 has linked Dioxin with an increased incidence of breast cancer.

In light of this the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) suspended the use of 2,4,5-T for most purposes including their use in herbicides.

But more delicate experiments revealed that real dangers of Dioxin. While it took usually large doses of Dioxin to impair the reproductive systems of adult rats, a number of ground-breaking experiments discovered that extremely small doses of Dioxin did long-term damage to the reproductive systems of males exposed in the womb.

A single small dose of Dioxin on the fifteenth day of pregnancy in rats, proved to be devastating. Male pups born to mothers given Dioxin showed noticeable abnormalities in their reproductive organs when they grew up and showed sperm count reductions as low as 56%. Dioxin was an endocrine disruptor.

Human Exposure to Dioxin

We incorporate Dioxin into our bodies through various routes.  The major source of Dioxin comes through out diet. It bio-accumulates in the food chain and it is fat-soluble. According to a recent study most North Americans obtain more than 90% of their Dioxin load from meat and dairy products and a staggering 23% from milk alone.

The Potential of Dioxinimage

Dioxin acts like a powerful hormone capable of producing very strong, oestrogen-like effects at very low doses – doses that are very close to those found in the human population.  Dioxin is a very dangerous chemical for a number of reasons. It is an endocrine disruptor of unknown potential.

Considering that a woman uses over 11,000 tampons in her lifetime, the issue of how the tampon is made and from what is an important health and environmental consideration for women.

Time to change?

All this is from a Sanitary Towel?.. Really?

So what can you do about it?

There are a few good brands out there but the only brand that I can recommend is Natracare.  I have been using this brand for years and I can say that I have certainly noticed a difference.  The ‘duration’ of my time was greatly decreased. symptoms gone, and a lighter flow.

imageNatracare never uses latex. Without enforced labelling of feminine hygiene products, it is difficult for women with latex allergy to find out that there are some sanitary pads and liners available today that do use latex in their products. Latex can be used to make the wings on pads more flexible, or it can be used as a binder in the cover that is used on the surface of pads and liners, where it is in close contact with the skin.

Natracare tampons are made from only certified organic 100% cotton and are the only fully certified organic cotton tampons available in the world today. They are non-chlorine bleached and women can be reassured that they do not contain synthetic materials, such as rayon, or chemical additives such as binders or surfactants. Certified organic cotton removes the risk of direct exposure to residues from chemical pesticides and fertilisers used on traditional cotton.

Natracare chemical free pads are high quality products made from only pure and natural materials that are made from plant cellulose. They are not chlorine bleached and are free of rayon, plastics and other similar synthetic materials that have a negative impact on our environment.

Non-Chlorine Bleached . Perfume free . Natural Materials . Extra Soft Cover . Plastic free . Biodegradable . Certified Organic 100% Pure Cotton . ICEA/IMO Certified.  Soft and Strong . No Chlorine . No Parabens . No SLS . No Alcohol . Not Tested On Animals . Suitable for Vegans

I purchase from Waitrose for around £1.95 for 12, which is not much more than the high brands.  Considering the lengths they go to to provide a better product and the improvements made to your life.

http://www.ocado.com/webshop/getSearchProducts.do?entry=Natracare&tags=|21581

There are a few more brands out there.  Check them out and let me know how you get on… Can’t wait!

 
7 Comments

Posted by on March 10, 2011 in Kelly

 

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The Dangers Of… Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate

This inexpensive detergent is commonly used in cosmetic cleansers, hair shampoos, bath and shower gels, bubble baths and in the cleaning industry SLS is used in garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, car-wash soaps, etc.

Products without SLS simply will not foam as well and many people don’t like that. People want lots of foam from their shampoos and body washes. But SLS is very drying to the skin, especially to black/afro hair and skin.

Sodium lauryl sulfate is used throughout the world for clinical testing as a primary skin irritant. Laboratories use it to irritate skin on test animals and humans so that they may then test healing agents to see how effective they are on the irritated skin

A study at the University of Georgia Medical College, indicated that SLS penetrated into the eyes as well as brain, heart, liver, etc., and showed long-term retention in the tissues. The study also indicated that SLS penetrated young children’s eyes and prevented them from developing properly and caused cataracts to develop In adults.

  • It may cause hair loss by attacking the follicle. Classified as a drug in bubble baths because it eats away skin protection and causes rashes and infection to occur.
  • Cleans by corrosion. Dries skin by stripping the protective lipids from the surface so it can’t effectively regulate moisture.

Another extremely serious problem is the connection of SLS with nitrate contamination. SLS reacts with many types of ingredients used in skin products and forms nitrosomines (nitrates). Nitrates are potential cancer-causing carcinogenics.

Because of the alarming penetrating power of SLS, large amounts of these known carcinogens are absorbed through the skin into the body. A variation of SLS is SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate- SLES). It exhibits many of the same characteristics and is a higher-foaming variation of SLS.

A report published in the Journal of The American College of Toxicology in 1983 showed that concentrations as low as 0.5% could cause irritation and concentrations of 10-30% caused skin corrosion and severe irritation.

  • Shampoos are among the most frequently reported products to the FDA. Reports include eye irritation, scalp irritation, tangled hair, swelling of the hands, face and arms and split and fuzzy hair. The main cause of these problems is sodium lauryl sulfate
  • It is also well documented that it denatures skin proteins, which causes not only irritation, but also allows environmental contaminants easier access to the lower, sensitive layers of the skin
  • Most Worryingly SLS is also absorbed into the body from skin application as it has a low molecular weight. Once it has been absorbed, one of the main effects of sodium lauryl sulfate is to mimic the activity of the hormone Oestrogen. This has many health implications and may be responsible for a variety of health problems from PMS and Menopausal symptoms to dropping male fertility and increasing female cancers such as breast cancer, where oestrogen levels are known to be involved.

Unfortunately, many of the gentler detergents that may be substituted for sodium lauryl sulfate pose their own health hazards. For example, many companies have begun to use ethoxylated detergents such as sodium laureth sulfate, cocamide DEA or lauramide DEA because they tend to be less irritating.

Consumers can recognize shampoo ingredients containing ethoxylated detergents and related ingredients by looking for the prefix, word, or syllable PEG, polyethylene, polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene, eth (as in sodium laureth sulfate), or oxynol.

The federal government has documented ethoxylated alcohol compounds are frequently contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, which is carcinogenic and is listed by the federal government as a probable human carcinogen.

Ethoxylation: Ethoxylation is the process that makes degreasing agents such as Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) less abrasive and gives them enhanced foaming properties. When SLS is ethoxylated, it forms Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), a compound used in many shampoos, toothpastes, bath gels, bubble baths, and industrial degreasants. The problem is, the extremely harmful compound 1,4-dioxane may be created during the ethoxylation process, contaminating the product. 1,4-dioxane was one of the principal components of the chemical defoliant Agent Orange, used to great effect by the Americans during the Vietnam War to strip off the jungle canopy to reveal their enemy. 1,4-dioxane is a hormonal disrupter believed to be the chief agent implicated in the host of cancers suffered by Vietnam military personnel after the war. It is also an oestrogen mimic thought to increase the chances of breast cancer and endometrial cancer, stress related illnesses and lower sperm counts.

Alternatives

It is well worth investing in SLS free shampoos and body washes. The health risks posed by both Sodium Lauryl and Laureth sulfates are well documented.

It’s actually been very difficult to find a good alternative to these sulfates, which is quite surprising seeing as there are so many ‘natural’ and ‘SLS – free’ brands of shampoos out there. A lot of the alternatives seem to pose health risks of their own and can also be drying and irritating.

There are other factors to consider when purchasing shampoos that will also affect the way your hair feels after it’s been cleansed. One of these being pH balance.

The ideal pH range for our hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. This acidic pH range closes our cuticles and helps to hold moisture in our hair. This pH also prevents bacteria and fungi growth on our scalp.

  • Castile soaps are said to be a good alternative because of the ingredients and the way it is made. However Castille soaps have a very high pH of between 9.5 and 10 which causes the the cuticles of the hair to swell, feel rough and appear dull as the hair’s natural pH is acidic at a range of 4.5 to 5.5
  • Natural African Black Soap is also used as an alternative to harsh shampoos with good results. It’s pH range though, is between 7.0 and 8.0 making it slightly alkaline. It is deemed more acceptable for the hair than castile soaps
  • Baking Soda is another alternative some employ to clarify the hair as an alternative to shampoo. But baking soda has a natural pH range of 8.3 to 9.0 making it’s effects similar to that of castile soap based products.

Alkaline solutions do the exact opposite of acid solutions on our hair and scalp causing the cuticles to lift or become rough. High pH also breaks disulfide bonds that give hair it’s shape (that’s how relaxers work, normally with a pH range of 8.0 to 14.0 depending on whether it’s mild or not).

  • ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) is used to clarify the hair of product build and is acidic in nature with a pH of 3.0 which is slightly more acidic than hair and is considered acceptable when diluted with water
  • Aloe Vera is also acidic in it’s pH range and can help with rebalancing the acidity of the hair and scalp. Shampoos containing this ingredient are generally very good.

The best thing is to try out some of the SLS-free shampoos out there and see for yourself which ones your hair prefers. Look for pH balanced shampoos as these are the best for our hair ranging between 4.5 and 7.0. As our hair is naturally curly we need the most moisturizing shampoo we can find which in turn means the least stripping.

 

Links

Handmade Naturals – Recommended
http://www.handmadenaturals.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c1=HAIR%20CARE&c2=SHAMPOO

Revital
http://www.revital.co.uk/Shampoo

Hejhog
http://hejhog-uk.com/haircare-shampoo-drydamaged-hair-c-106_155.html?osCsid=e7d53938305dc5643ef7dd3f35e64ce7

Essentials London
http://www.essentialslondon.com/vgm_search_result.aspx

 

 

Must Reads

The Healthy Persons Guide to Personal Care Ingredients
http://www.terressentials.com/ingredientguide.html

Safe Shampoo?
http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/health-well-being/stories/safe-shampoo

 

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