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Getting To Know Your Hair–pH & Hair

12 Oct

So far, we’ve discussed what healthy hair is and what three things are key in maintaining healthy hair – moisture, protein and pH. I’ve talked about the first two, moisture and protein and how to maintain the correct moisture/protein balance with regular wet testing. Today i’m continuing the ‘Getting To Know Your Hair’ series with a brief outline of what pH is and how it affects the health of our hair.

What is pH?

pH stands for ‘potential of hydrogen’ or ‘hydrogen strength’ and refers to the acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous (water based) solution relative to the concentration of hydrogen ions present. The level of pH is measured on a logarithmic scale of 0 – 14 with 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. In the middle we have pH 7 which is considered neutral as it has an equal balance of acidity and alkalinity. Water has a pH of 7 (hard water can measure pH 8!). pH 0 – 6.9 are acidic in nature and pH 7.1 – 14 are alkaline (base or caustic).

pH on a logarithmic scale is measured in multiples of 10 so every number on the scale is 10x more alkaline or acidic than the previous number. Example: pH 6 is 10x more acidic than pH 7, pH 5 is 10x more acidic than pH 6 and 100x (10×10) more acidic than pH 7. pH 8 is 10x more alkaline than pH 7 and pH 9 is 10x more alkaline than pH 8 and 100x (10×10) more alkaline than pH 7. It’s a little confusing i know, but it does help to know this (honestly).

What pH is Our Hair?

Our hair and skins pH measures between 4.0 – 5.5 so our hair is acidic in nature. In order to maintain optimal hair health we should try and keep our hair within this range.

How pH Affects Our Hair

pH greatly affects the way in which our hair looks, feels and behaves.

 

How Acidity Affects Our Hair

In it’s optimal pH range of 4.0 to 5.5 the cuticles of our hair lie flat against one another contributing to a smooth look and feel and allows light to bounce off well, giving our hair lovely shine or sheen. Closed cuticles protect the shaft from external damage and allows the strands to move around each other without causing damage. If we decrease the pH of our hair further, then the cuticles continue to tighten and tighten. Solutions or products with a pH lower than 3 will begin to corrode or eat away at the hair & scalp causing damage.

How Alkalinity Affects Our Hair

If we raise the pH of our hair above 5.5 the shaft begins to swell and the cuticles will begin to lift or open. Raised cuticles will allow more moisture into our hair but will also allow more moisture out. Lifted cuticles expose the hairs cortex and provides limited protection. Hair in this state is considered weak and susceptible to further damage. Lifted cuticles cause the hair to look dull and rough and each strand can tangle on the next causing more damage to the cuticle layer. The higher the pH the more our hair swells and our cuticles lift incurring more and more damage. Solutions or products with a pH of 10 or more will begin to dissolve the hair and scalp causing damage. Permanent hair dyes and relaxers are extremely alkaline (pH values between 10 and 13) and work by lifting the cuticles so the chemicals can deposit onto and alter the cortex/main structure of the hair.  Highly alkaline solutions weaken the disulfide bonds in the hair and can alter it’s structure permanently. 

Maintaining Healthy Hair With pH

Our goal here is to maintain the hairs optimal pH range of between 4.0 and 5.5 and thus keep it nice and healthy. All products containing water have a pH value and it’s important that our water based products such as shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins and moisturisers be within this range. Remember, water is 100 – 1000 times more alkaline than our hair so even a quick warm water rinse will cause the cuticles to lift slightly. If we dry our hair and apply oil or butter straight onto our hair after rinsing with warm water, the cuticles will remain open causing a slight feel of roughness and less sheen or shine. We should always try to restore or rebalance our hairs pH. It’s important, then, to use a water based, pH balanced (acidic) leave-in or moisturiser after washing our hair to bring the pH back down and close the cuticles before sealing with an oil or butter. A final rinse of diluted ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) also serves this purpose. Aloe Vera is also a great ingredient choice for hair moisturisers and spritzes as its pH value is around 4. This way we ensure our cuticles are closed, that moisture is retained well and our hair is stronger and less susceptible to damage.

The last post in this series will be on porosity and how it affects our hair, including how to correct any porosity issues.

Until next time!

 
6 Comments

Posted by on October 12, 2011 in Getting To Know Your Hair, pH & Hair, pH Balance, Science Of Hair

 

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TKC: Honey – For Hair and Skin with Recipes

08 Aug

TKC-Logo_thumb10

By Kelly

I Hope you enjoyed the last post about ‘Honey for health and Healing.’  I shared just a few recipes.  There are so many out there to try out.  Honey is fantastic.

This time round, we’ll cover Honey for Hair and Skin – recipes included.

HAIR

Frequent-use Shampoo

4 teabags Chamomile Tea or 1 Handful Chamomile Flowers

350ml/ 1 1/2 cups Boiling Water

60ml/ 4 tbsp Soap Flakes

30ml/ 2 tbsp Honey

1. Steep the teabags or flowers in the water for 10 minutes

2.  Strain the liquid into a bowl and stir in the soap flakes and honey.  Cool.

3.  Wet the hair, then massage half of the mixture into the scalp and hair.  Rinse.

Note: Chamomile flowers can lighten blonde hair.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

5ml/1 tsp Dried Rosemary

5ml/ 1 tsp Dried Thyme

150ml/ 2/3 cups Boiling Water

15ml/ tbsp Honey

150ml/ 2/3 cups Cider Vinegar

1.  Place the herbs in a bowl and pour over the boiling water

2.  Add the honey and mix until it is melted.  Cover and allow to steep for 20 mins.

3.  Strain the mixture into a bottle or jar

4.  Add the cider Vinegar and shake well to mix. 

5.  Wet the hair and massage in some of the shampoo.  Rinse.  Store the remaining shampoo in a cool,dry place.

Conditioner

5ml/ 1 tsp Honey

1 Egg

10 ml/ 2 tsp Coconut or Olive Oil

1.  In a plastic bowl or jug, mix together all the ingredients until blended.

2.  Massage over the whole of the scalp.  Wrap the head in a warm towel and leave for 30 minutes.  Rinse. 

Honey and Vinegar Rinse

5ml/ 1 tsp Honey

1 litre/ 4 cups Hot Water

5ml/ 1 tsp Cider Vinegar

1.  Mix the ingredients together

2.  Pour over hair as the final rinse

SKIN

Cleanser

12g/ 1/3 oz Beeswax

15g/ 1/2oz Emulsifying Wax

15ml/ 1 tbsp Coconut Oil

100ml/1/2 cup Olive Oil

1.5ml/ 1/4 tsp Borax

30ml/ 2 tbsp Warm Water

7.5ml/ 1/2 tbsp Rosewater

5 drops Rosemary Essential Oil

1. Melt the Beeswax, Emulsifying wax, coconut oil, and olive oil in a double boiler.

2.  In a separate bowl, dissolve the borax in the warm water

3.  Slowly add the melted oils to the first bowl, stirring constantly.  When Lukewarm, add the essential oil and rosewater,  When cool, refrigerate.

Excellent for removing makeup and mascara and suitable for most skin types

Facial Scrub

120ml/1/2 cup Oatmeal or Sugar Granules

30ml/ 2 tbsp Honey

1 Ripe Banana

1.  Mix all ingredients together to form a thick paste

2.  Massage over the face, focussing on areas that need attention and avoiding the eyes.  Leave on for a few minutes before washing off with a soft cloth and warm water, followed by a splash of astringent (I recommend Witch Hazel)

The honey and banana are rich hydrators to counteract the abrasiveness of the scrub and will also give a scrumptious fragrance to the mix.

Skin Tonic

1/2 Cucumber, cut into chunks

30ml/ 2 tbsp Pollen Granules

30ml/ 2 tbsp Natural (plain) Yoghurt (optional)

1. Add cucumber to pollen granules and mash together or whizz in a liquidiser.

2.  Strain before use.

3.  If you want a thicker preparation, add the natural yoghurt

4.  Decant into a previously sterilised container and when cold, refrigerate until ready to use.

Cucumber contains vitamin C which improves circulation, clarity and texture, leaving the skin luminous.  Pollen promotes healing to damaged skin.

 

Face Moisturiser

10g/ 1/4 oz Beeswax

20ml/ 4tsp Almond Oil

75ml/ 5 tbsp Rosewater or Distilled Water

10ml/ 2 tsp Honey

OPTIONAL:  Few drops of Frankincense or Geranium or Rose Water Absolute

1 tsp vitamin E oil

1.  Heat together the beeswax and oil in a bain-marie (double-boiler method) until melted.

2.  Heat together the water and the honey until just under boiling.  Combine with the beeswax mixture and mix for 5 minutes.

3.  Set aside until lukewarm then add any optional ingredients.  Pour into a wide-necked jar and when cool put a lid on and store in the refrigerator.

 

All lotions and creams have three main components – water, oil and an emulsifying agent which encourages the water and oil to combine.  The cream contains rosewater and almond oil and the emulsifier is beeswax.  Honey is added for it’s moisturising and preservative abilities, and it’s ability to hold moisture.  The addition of Vitamin E oil is effective in ironing out wrinkles and fading scars on the skin.

 

Eye Cream

15ml 1 tbsp Honey

1 Egg White

3-5 drops of Frankincense Essential Oil (optional)

1.  Mix the honey with the egg white

2.  Add the essential oil, if required and mix.

 

Honey’s ability to attract and seal in moisture is put to use in this cream to leave the skin feeling soft and supple.  Make a fresh formula for each application, then gently pat the mix onto the tissue around the eyes, avoiding dragging the skin,  Remove gently by washing off with warm water. 

 

Mask

50g/ 1 Cup Oatmeal

30ml/ 2 tbsp Honey

5ml/ 1 tsp Rosewater

1.  Blend the oatmeal with the honey and add the rosewater.

2.  Mix until a smooth paste is formed.

 

Before applying the mask, wash your face in warm water to open up the pores.  Spread the mask on your face avoiding the eyes and leave for 15-30 mins.  Wash off with a soft flannel.   Using this once a week will leave you with glowing skin. 

 

Hope you enjoyed this post.

 

Try them out and let me know what you think..

 

.. Can’t wait..

 
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Posted by on August 8, 2011 in Kelly

 

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TKC: Chelating v. Clarifying Shampoos

24 Jun

By Kelly

 

 

 

 

Clarifying Shampoos are a must for hair carers, but is it enough? Do you need a little more?

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What is a Chelating Shampoo?

Chelating shampoos are for lifting dulling, mineral deposits (and random ions) that have attached to your hair (mainly in hard water situations.) Some people use them as a pre cursor to a chemical service to help free up the cuticle and get “better” relaxer results. It can also be used after a relaxer (especially if the relaxer is no-lye) to help remove some of the deposits relaxers leave behind.

Regular shampoos can’t remove the minerals; they can only remove product build-up. Minerals really bind onto the hair and don’t just wash off. Not even a clarifying shampoo can lift the minerals off, hence the need for a chelating shampoo.

Chelating shampoos are sometimes referred to as swimmers shampoos because they remove chlorine deposits and such. Some swimmer’s shampoos are also chelating formulas, too

Clarifying Shampoos:

Clarifying shampoos are mainly for lifting everyday products and other build-up from the strands. Some clarifying shampoos contain chelating ingredients (ex. EDTA), but those ingredients are typically used in those other shampoo formulas as preservatives and/or pH balancers. Look for a chelating shampoo that specifically says that it is formulated to either chelate or lift mineral deposits because ingredients can throw you off.

How Do You Know If You Need To Chelate Or Clarify?

Chelating shampoos are only really necessary if you have hard water, are a swimmer, or you relax with no-lye formulas. They are specifically formulated to lift mineral deposits from the hair, and they can also clarify since they are generally stronger shampoo formulas. Occasionally you’ll see a clarifying formula that also chelates like Kenra Clarifying Shampoo.

Plain old, regular product build up tends to result in limp, weighed down feeling hair. It also tends to feel dry and may even have a bit of breakage, but not to the magnitude of mineral-laden hair. Mineral build-up results in hair that is excessively dry and straw-like despite conditioning. Faded colours (for colour-treated hair especially,) and even some brassy weird tones on natural hair colours. Breakage occurs pretty easily. If your water lathers poorly in general with soap and shampoos, your water is hard and you could be in need of a chelating shampoo. Also, if your water makes your skin feel dry after a shower or bathing, you’ve probably got some hard water.

So, If you aren’t a swimmer, a no-lye user, or don’t have hard water, you really don’t need a chelating shampoo.  A clarifying shampoo will do everything you need (and some clarifiers actually contain chelating ingredients like EDTA).  A clarifier won’t work well if you have hard water.  So if your shampoo isn’t lathering well, you’re clarifying and your hair still feels coated, your hair colour has a strange cast to it, and just feels rough and ‘tangly’ in the shower, you probably have hard water and you might benefit from a chelating shampoo.

If you don’t fit the description for a chelating shampoo (and/or aren’t sure if you have hard water) but you want one just in case – I’d use one once a month or every couple of months just for maintenance.

How often should you use a Chelating Shampoo?

Swimmers use chelating shampoo formulas often. My daughter swims twice a week and I use it in her hair twice a month because the swimming cap still lets all the water in and her hair is pretty much drenched when she comes out of the pool. If I feel that it is too much for her hair, I cut back and just use a clarifier or give her hair a really deep condition plus treatments. If you have hard water, then you need it more often too – but once a month or every couple of months is the most common.

Note: It can dry out your hair if you don’t deep condition it afterwards.

Chelating Agents Are:

Disodium EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate AKA Trisodium Citrate

What Chelating Shampoos are there?

Most chelating shampoos will say that they are.  Some popular chelating shampoos are:

  • Pureology Purify Shampoo – sulfate free – best reputation
  • Kenra Clarifying – chelating formula and clarifier in one – good reviews as does not over strip the hair. Also does not contain SLS as many others do.
  • Shampoo Three’ by Paul Mitchell
  • Joico K-Pac Chelating Poo
  • L’anza Swim & Sun Daily Chelating Shampoo
  • Mizani Phormula 7 Neutralizing and Chelating Shampoo Aveda Detox
  • Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo is chelating  (removes minerals)
  •   RESOLVE® Chelating Shampoo from Joico
  •   Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo
  •   Nexxus Aloe Rid
  •   Nexxus – Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo
  •   Ouidad Water Works
  •   Artec Texturline Daily Clarifying Shampoo

Some have joked that Johnsons Baby Shampoo fits the bill as it contains Tetrasodium EDTA and contains no SLS!

The Benefits:

There would be nothing blocking the penetration of healthy hair products and you’d only need to use it once a month or so, so the bottle will last more than a year with that little of use.

Yes, it would have a slight stripped feeling but after deep conditioning afterwards, you will notice a difference in how your hair took to your conditioning treatment because chelating makes your hair like a blank canvas.

Some naturals have never used a chelating shampoo, and find that clarifying works just as well.

The choice is yours.

If you choose to use one of the above products or another that you’ve found, please review and let me know how you got on. Can’t wait…


 
5 Comments

Posted by on June 24, 2011 in Kelly

 

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TKC: (ACV) Apple Cider Vinegar, Hibiscus & Honey Rinse Preserve

25 Mar

By Kelly

I don’t know about you, but I love my ACV rinse.  It leaves my hair feeling so soft and, well, the texture it should be.  The thing about ACV rinsing is that it takes care of what most commercial hair products don’t.

Nadia makes good points about ACV in her blog, but I will re-iterate for the cause…

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What does pH mean to hair?

pH stands for potential hydrogen, or the acidity or alkalinity of a product. 7 is the neutral spot for pH but anything between 6.5 to 7.5 is considered to be a neutral range. Anything above 7 is alkaline and anything below 7 is acid.

Hair is on the mildly acidic side of the pH scale and has an ideal pH of 4.0 to 5.5, which is close to that of an apple cider vinegar rinse (pH 2.9.)

The surface of a strand of hair is covered with overlapping sheets, somewhat like the scales on a fish, or the shingles on a house. This surface is called the cuticle.

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Alkaline solutions raise these scales, so they stand up. This makes the hair rougher, makes it look dull, and makes the hair shafts stick together due to the rough texture.  Many of the hair care products we use, such as soap-based shampoos, bleaches, hair colours, and permanents are strongly alkaline.

The shampoos that are made slightly acidic, keep the cuticle smooth and lying flat on the hair shaft. Ingredients like citric acid are added to acidify the shampoo.  However, to make a shampoo pH balanced manufacturers often put chemical acid called triethanolamine (TEA), which may be contaminated with nitrosamines that have been known to cause cancer.

Also, as shampoo mixes with the water in the shower or bath, or mixes with dirt on the hair, it can become less acidic as the acids mix with alkaline water or dirt. A compound (usually sodium citrate) that releases more acidifying ions when the acidity gets low, or absorbs acid when the acidity gets too high, is called a buffer.

The question is, how many acidifying ions in the shampoo will remain to release acidifying ions after applying and rinsing off conditioners and other treatments if the shampoo was only slightly acidic to being with?  Is shampooing with a slightly acidic shampoo enough for your hair?

 

How does ACV Help?

For the pH level of the hair to remain at or near 4.0, it’s best for it to be the last or near the last process to avoid dilution. For this reason, I use my ACV rinse AFTER all my shampoo and conditioning treatments.  Otherwise, adding ACV to your Leave-in conditioner, Deep Conditioner or Spritz is recommended.  Whatever you choose, you now know that the pH balance is an essential part of keeping your hair in good health

Rinsing with Apple Cider Vinegar will bring the pH level of your hair to approx. 4.0 which is just what the hair needs. Rinsing will close the numerous cuticle scales which cover and protect the surface of each hair shaft. This imparts a smoother surface which reflects more light and as a result leaves your hair shinier, smoother and easier to manage.

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The ACV mix is made as a concentrate and stored in the fridge.  The honey contained serves as so it’s ok to keep for about 1 month. 

 

 

Ingredients:

500ml Water

500ml Apple Cider Vinegar – contains more than 30 nutrients. From pectin to minerals like potassium, magnesium and calcium, apple cider vinegar is a rich natural source of vitamins. Its antiseptic properties arrests growth of harmful germs that cause myriad infections

5 Tbsp. Hibiscus (Sorrel to the West Indians) – Prevents hair loss, Enhances growth of hair, Discourages split ends, Thickens hair, Prevents premature greying of hair, Prevent dandruff, Gives a soapy quality to Shikakai.

3 Tbsp. Honey  – Serves as preservative which would enable the mixture to keep for about a month in the fridge.  It is also a humectant which naturally attracts and promotes retention of moisture.

 

Directions:

1. Bring water to the boil and add Hibiscus.  Simmer for 20 mins.  Allow to cool.

2. Sieve out Hibiscus and add ACV and honey.

3. Pour into an airtight container and keep in fridge

 

IMPORTANT:

When needed, pour out only 200ml and dilute with water up to 1 litre.

 

It takes the hassle out of my treatments.

As mentioned before, I prefer to pour over my hair when I have finished my other treatments and processes.  I pour over my hair, leave for 5 mins and rinse off.

I would then use my leave-in, seal and protective style as usual.

 

Did you try it?  Let me know how you get on…can’t wait..


 
10 Comments

Posted by on March 25, 2011 in Hair Care

 

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